Sunday 24 June 2018

‘Endangered’ Paris bistros and terrace cafes seek UN status

Bistro owners have launched a campaign to be named as an ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding’ by Unesco.

Pierre-Christophe Hantz poses in front of his restaurant Le Vaudesir in Paris (Francois Mori/AP)
Pierre-Christophe Hantz poses in front of his restaurant Le Vaudesir in Paris (Francois Mori/AP)

By Sylvie Corbet, Associated Press

Owners of the bistros and terrace cafes that are integral to the Paris way of life want the “je ne sais quoi” of their establishments to be recognised as of broader value and endangered.

They have launched a campaign to be named by the United Nations’ cultural agency as an “Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding”.

Unesco has given that status to traditions as varied as a Mongolian camel-coaxing ritual, Iranian sailboat building and the sung prayers of indigenous Peruvians.

Members of a bistro owners association gathered at Le Mesturet in central Paris on Monday.

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Menu prices hang on the walls of a restaurant in Paris (Francois Mori/AP)

With its zinc counter, wooden tables and chairs and wine bottles for decoration, it is typical of the kind of establishment people were relaxing outside of when extremists shot at them on November 13 2015.

They said the bistros of Paris play a key role in bringing people of all origins, religions, social classes and age together in a cheap, open place to drink a coffee or share a meal.

The bistros are also threatened by increasing rents and competition and their number has dropped by half in the past 20 years, the owners argued.

“Our most beautiful love and friendship stories were often born in bistros and on terraces,” Le Mesturet owner Alain Fontaine, the association’s president, said.

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Alain Fontaine stressed that the ‘real Parisian bistro’ offers homemade food and accessible prices (Francois Mori/AP)

A visiting tourist “will find a lively place, a place to share with the people of Paris – the people of Paris of today, not the people of the past”, Mr Fontaine added.

“A multi-ethnic, inter-faith, socially varied people. All of this disappears inside a bistro.”

The association hopes to see its candidacy examined by Unesco next year.

Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo supports the initiative.

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Wine waitress Jennifer Muday of the Mesturet restaurant displays a bottle of Cote De Beaune (Francois Mori/AP)

Stephanie Mathey, 39, the owner of three bistros in Paris, said she enjoyed taking a coffee in such places even before they became her life work.

Her husband grew up in the bar his parents owned.

“Later, he went to the United States for a long time and when he came back, he said, ‘It’s really something that I missed – the bistros,'” Ms Mathey said.

The couple eventually decided to open their own.

Mr Fontaine stressed that the “real Parisian bistro” offers homemade food and accessible prices – like a coffee for one euro (£0.88) and the days’ special with a glass of wine for 12 euro (£10.50).

He gets emotional when discussing the November 2015 extremist attacks that targeted a concert hall and a football stadium as well as cafes, leaving 130 people dead.

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The bistros of Paris play a key role in bringing people of all origins, religions, social classes and age together, their owners say (Francois Mori/AP)

His ancestors moved from Brussels to Paris in 1784 and he represents the ninth generation living in the same neighbourhood.

“I can’t talk about the attacks,” he said, looking at a wooden table built by his great-grandfather.

“I was hurt because it targeted Parisian ‘art de vivre’,” the way of life.

“We built this over centuries — these terraces and bistros… and I thought about these colourful Parisian youths, from different ethnic and religious backgrounds on these terraces and bistros,” Mr Fontaine said.

“These people were targeted. People who were Parisians.”

After the attacks, Parisians rallied to cafes and terraces in a show of defiance.

Press Association

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