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Restaurant review: Katy McGuinness visits Dede in Baltimore - 'The Turkish country salad is a contender for my dish of the year'

Dede, The Customs House, Baltimore, Co Cork; customhousebaltimore.com

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Reinvention: During lockdown, Dede provided a takeaway service for locals. Picture: Clare Keogh

Reinvention: During lockdown, Dede provided a takeaway service for locals. Picture: Clare Keogh

Reinvention: During lockdown, Dede provided a takeaway service for locals. Picture: Clare Keogh

'It is my version of a simple Turkish country salad," says Ahmet Dede. "Tomatoes, bread, cheese, a few onions, herbs..."

The description is disingenuous. There's a lot more to it than that. The whole cherry tomatoes, the first of the season from Lisheen Organics, are skinned perfectly (can you imagine the work involved in that one process alone?) before being marinated in aromatics and combined with local whipped ricotta, three types of basil - green, Thai and purple - grown on Cape Clear, topped with a Turkish take on gazpacho and dusted with spices.

It's a stunning combination and one that's already a contender for my dish of the year.