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Restaurant review: Katy McGuinness gets a taste of perfect pandemic dining at BBQ joint Baste in Dublin

Baste, Studio 39, 39 Clanbrassil St Upper, Dublin 8; bastebbq.com

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Great outdoors: The packing crates are surprisingly comfortable. Photo: Steve Humphreys

Great outdoors: The packing crates are surprisingly comfortable. Photo: Steve Humphreys

Great outdoors: The packing crates are surprisingly comfortable. Photo: Steve Humphreys

If you ever had a dream to open a restaurant of your own, you are probably now thanking your lucky stars that it never became a reality. But our independent restaurateurs are a resilient bunch, and the best of them have shown an ability to adapt, survive and even thrive in the face of a level of adversity that none of them could have envisaged, in the hope of making it out the other side. And so they've opened shops, offered takeaways and meal kits, and invested in retro-fitting to get their doors open.

Andy Noonan of Baste may not have called himself a restaurateur pre-Covid, but he is one now. At the forefront of low 'n' slow cooking in Ireland, Noonan is the organiser of The Big Grill festival that takes place in Herbert Park each summer, bringing together pit-folk from around the world. (Last year, Clanbrassil House's Gráinne O'Keefe collaborated with Black Axe Mangal's Lee Tiernan to create a brilliant dish of beef with hash brown fried, ginger and chilli salsa and anchovy mayo that was one of the best things I ate in 2019.)

A couple of months back, Noonan began offering click-and-collect boxes of barbecued meats, made with free-range meat and poultry. And now, in a disused car lot near Harold's Cross Bridge, he's opened Baste, an open-air barbecue restaurant that's the kind of place we all want to eat in right now and which the powers that be in Dublin City Council should be doing their utmost to facilitate.