Style Fashion

Monday 20 August 2018

What women want...

Visiting Ireland this week, designer Roksanda Ilincic says it's about standing out

'Tasha' dress in mandarin silk satin, €1,780
'Tasha' dress in mandarin silk satin, €1,780
Neneh bag €1,230
Roksan Demetra dress €2,210.00
'Livia' jacket, €1,710, and 'Lapari' wide-legged trousers, €1,050, from her SS18 collection, available at Brown Thomas
'Harimi' knit dress, €2,730
Designer Roksanda Ilincic
Bairbre Power

Bairbre Power

On the political landscape, Michelle Obama and Melania Trump have little in common apart from the 'first lady' moniker as well as a joint appreciation of the fashion talents of designer Roksanda Ilincic, who comes to Dublin next Thursday to meet her Irish 'collectors' at Brown Thomas.

Her clothes are not cheap but the Serbian-born, London-based mother-of-one has committed fans who invest annually because they like how she plays with volume and texture, the sculptural edges and poetic shapes brought to life in luxurious fabrics and temptingly bold hues.

With a customer list packed with international A-listers like Tilda Swinton, Cate Blanchett and Emily Blunt, the 47-year-old designer has a jam-packed schedule with multiple collections each year, and next week, she brings to Ireland.

"I can't wait to come to Dublin, to be honest with you, because I was planning to come so many times and somehow it never happened, so I'm really looking forward to coming and meeting everybody," says Roksanda, who is married and has a seven-year-old daughter.

When it comes to her design process, the Central Saint Martins star graduate says it comes to her "quite intuitively". "I'm a woman and I think I understand what women want to show and what they want to hide, but also how they want to look and how they want to stand out in our time. I think it is very much about being modern, being relevant and corresponding to our needs and desires we have as women in our time and age."

As a designer, she is very much influenced by art and people like Kandinsky and Malevich, pioneers of Russian abstract art. For her SS18 collection, she features loved prints and roses (see right), plus lots of incredible textures like lurex, linen, cotton and silk.

For Pre-Fall 18, she looked to the Troika art collective, neighbours to her studio in east London, and her look book (see main image) was shot in their studio surrounded by their art and tools. Roksanda describes Pre-Fall, which lands in time for high summer, as "a gentle introduction to autumn. I tried to address all of that in my collection, from coats to summer dresses to my signature colour and cut-out dresses."

A popular new addition to her ready-to-wear clothing line are handbags, which this season come with signature double rings and provide an entry point to her designs. "I wanted to create a whole world of bags corresponding to my dresses, something you can wear in a day when you are busy, to something small for the evening." Key for her is that the bags have her DNA and the same aesthetic as her ready-to-wear "so it's an entity in its own right".

A statuesque former model, Roksanda is, she says, "very proud of designing for women of all sizes and ages. "Women who are quite voluptuous love my dresses and women that are not so tall wear my dresses, and it's really nice to see the diversity. To appeal to different body shapes, heights and ages and to be able to have a customer in my shop or to have the whole family of different generations in my shop, that's something I am very proud of."

On the political landscape, Michelle Obama and Melania Trump have little in common apart from the 'first lady' moniker as well as a joint appreciation of the fashion talents of designer Roksanda Ilincic, who comes to Dublin next Thursday to meet her Irish 'collectors' at Brown Thomas.

@bairbrepower

Weekend Magazine

Style Newsletter

Stay on top of the latest fashion, beauty and celeb gossip in our Style newsletter.

Editors Choice

Also in this section