Friday 6 December 2019

Time to unveil the 2018 hotlist

From the return of cowboy boots to the well-dressed box sets we'll be bingeing on, here is the fashionable guide to the year ahead

Stylish turn: Penélope Cruz as Donatella Versace in American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace
Stylish turn: Penélope Cruz as Donatella Versace in American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace

This year looks set to be another stellar 12 months in the world of fashion - here is our roundup....

The red carpet goes black

Actresses are vowing to swap their usual spectacular, carefully-strategised looks for sombre black at this Sunday's Golden Globes.

"This is a moment of solidarity, not a fashion moment," Eva Longoria told The New York Times. "For years, we've sold these awards shows as women, with our gowns and colours and our beautiful faces and our glamour. This time the industry can't expect us to go up and twirl around."

Hmmm. We get Longoria's drift, although the last time we looked, most of these women had made quite a lot of money out of twirling their sponsored frocks. And we doubt any of them will look actually plain come Sunday.

Meanwhile, Georgina Chapman, the soon-to-be ex-wife of Harvey Weinstein, who used to use his power and, erm, influence to get many A-listers to wear her Marchesa label, is planning a comeback at New York fashion week. Will she do black?

Done right, this could be fashion at its powerfully symbolic best. Bethan Holt

Victoria Beckham is teaming up with Reebok this year
Victoria Beckham is teaming up with Reebok this year

The return of ladylike

When Off-White, a streetwear label best known for hoodies and T-shirts, swots up on Princess Diana style, you know fashion is caught in the cross-hairs of two concurrent but opposing ideas.

On the one hand, the luxury athleisure which many houses are still plundering - cue more silky trackpants, alligator bumbags and trainers - on the other, Off-White's unexpected stab at something more classically feminine.

This was an irony-free, comprehensive swerve through the Diana files, from Shy Di and Dynasty Di to Vengeful Di - and it signalled, if not a one-way ticket back to lady-like, then at least an alternative to loungewear and the frilly Victoriana that have been the main options on offer for the past year or so.

Other houses flirted with relaxed interpretations of womanliness - fluid skirts and feminine knits at Hermes, for instance. Jewelled, duchess satin dresses à la The Crown at Erdem. In the stores: Look out for pencil skirts, low pin heels and pastels, fashion's new Holy Trinity of Ladylike. Lisa Armstrong

Purple reign: Gucci shows the ultra-violet trend on the catwalk. Photo: AFP/Getty Images
Purple reign: Gucci shows the ultra-violet trend on the catwalk. Photo: AFP/Getty Images

Wild West

Expect school runs to look like Old West saloons as soon as deliveries of the new season's boots arrive. Western-inspired boots appeared in Natacha Ramsay-Levi's debut Chloe collection and Clare Waight Keller's first outing at Givenchy, as well as at Isabel Marant, Coach and (loosely) Off-White. This trend proves divisive, but since it kicked off with the striped black cowboy boots in Raf Simons's first runway show for Calvin Klein nearly a year ago, we say it's got legs - but do leave the 10-gallon hats to the pros. Emily Cronin

When Victoria met Reebok

Victoria Beckham used to be the woman who never appeared in public wearing lower than a 10cm heel. It was a comfort-snubbing gesture of mind-over-bunion, intended to stake out her chief characteristic as one of plucky derring-do.

Florence Nightingale had her lamp, George Eliot her pen, Victoria Beckham her Christian Louboutin Pigalles.

But fashion has a habit of slashing and burning through chief characteristics. It has decreed that flats and trainers are (still) the most modern way to conduct one's daily business and so, displaying a different kind of derring do, VB has teamed up with Reebok for the ultimate fashion hybrid. Coming later this year, if it's half as popular as her make-up collaboration, stand-by for a sell out. Or rather, don't. Run. LA

What will Meghan wear for her May wedding to Prince Harry? Photo: Alexi Lubomirski via Getty Image
What will Meghan wear for her May wedding to Prince Harry? Photo: Alexi Lubomirski via Getty Image

Pantone purple

"When I am an old woman I shall wear purple," runs Jenny Joseph's rallying cry for defying convention. But anyone looking to subvert the dominant paradigm in 2018 will have to look elsewhere, as purple has been named Pantone's colour of the year.

This is no apologetic shade of lavender or lilac - it's a wallop of bright purple, named Ultra Violet. Early adopters Gucci and Carolina Herrera have already shown the shade on the catwalk for spring/summer, but you should expect to see everything from front doors to dresses turning violet by autumn. A purple rinse never looked so tempting. Charlie Gowans-Eglington

Original divas

Rihanna and Beyoncé may have earned first-name status, but Cher trod the stage before they were twinkles in their parents' eyes - and she set the costume bar high. Now, the original diva is back, with a scene-stealing part (and Dynasty blow-dry) as Amanda Seyfried's gatecrashing grandmother in this year's Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again.

She's not alone in her career comeback, though - Madonna and Kylie (note the lack of last names here, too) are both set to tour this year, with the latter also releasing a new album.

Though if she wants the number one slot, she'll have to fight Celine Dion for it. After personal tragedy, Dion immersed herself not only in her work, but the fashion world, enlisting the help of a new stylist and courting the press in over-the-top designer catwalk looks - so her upcoming album will no doubt make a fashion statement, too. The divas are back. CGE

Tune in

"I had everything I wanted: I had you, I had your sister, I had Chanel and Dior," Oksana Godman, the matriarch of the Russian family at the heart of McMafia, says in the series' first episode.

It's one of the first salvos in a television season that promises plenty of style. There's also The Romanoffs, Matthew Weiner's first project since Mad Men; an ITV remake of Vanity Fair; and American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace. Starring Penélope Cruz as Donatella and Edgar Ramírez as Versace, it's sure to inspire a few late-night eBay purchases - not to mention Hallowe'en costumes. EC

What will Meghan wear?

Come May 19, the aisle of St George's Chapel in Windsor will become the world's most-watched catwalk as Meghan Markle unveils the wedding dress of the year.

Will she go the full Hollywood in Vera Wang or Oscar de la Renta? Or acquiesce to her new role as a duchess with something made in Britain by Erdem or Roland Mouret? Ever since she chose couture Ralph and Russo for her engagement portraits, the money is on Markle amping up the glamour. After all, if you wear €62,000-worth of tulle and crystals for a stroll in the garden, your wedding gown limits are bound to be off the scale. BH

Cinema style

There's a slew of filmic style cues coming our way. Later this month, you'll be entranced/weirded out by Daniel Day-Lewis's (rumoured) final film, Phantom Thread, which offers a bewitching insight into the world of British couture in the Fifties with its recreation of salon shows, fraught fittings and the obsessive work habits of Reynolds Woodcock, DDL's Balenciaga/Hardy Amies-inspired character.

Saoirse Ronan's laidback grunge look in Lady Bird offers excellent millennial spring wardrobe inspiration - think vintage prom dresses and boyish blazers. With Sandra Bullock, Cate Blanchett and Helena Bonham-Carter among its all-female line-up, Ocean's 8 promises wardrobe delights galore. And how will Claire Foy segue from The Crown's regal glamour to Lisbeth Salander's Scandi punk in The Girl in the Spider's Web? BH

Irish Independent

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