Monday 11 December 2017

The 2017 trends to know

Ahead of the spring season, Kate Finnigan and Emily Cronin guide you through the catwalk trends you'll be wearing this year

Stripe style: A model for Mulberry's spring-summer 2017 catwalk show at London Fashion Week
Stripe style: A model for Mulberry's spring-summer 2017 catwalk show at London Fashion Week
Big white dress: Celine
British model Ruth Bell when she opened at Dior
Dresses over trousers: Rosie Assoulin
Sunset colour: Hermés
Gigi Hadid (L) and Lauren Hutton modelled trench coats at Bottega Veneta
A model walks the runway at the J.W. Anderson show
Historic chic: Burberry
Oversized jacket: Lemaire

Stripes strike back, hair is shorn and Frankenstein's monster is shaping shoulders: welcome to spring/summer 2017. We've rounded up the season's top trends.

Stripes

Labels like Missoni and Paul Smith have stripes sewn into their DNA, but lines of every shade and thickness were also drawn elsewhere.

At Mulberry, school-blazer stripes were made into - yes - blazers and matching Bermuda shorts. Try to get those past the headmaster.

At Burberry were silky pyjama stripes; Pringle of Scotland went multicolour; and traditional blue and white striped men's shirts came in many variations, courtesy of Ports 1961, Stella McCartney and Sacai.

Sunset colour

Yellow turned to orange, then to soft and vibrant pink and scarlet over the course of fashion month. If you're not wearing white or summer black next season, invest in this rich colour palette - as seen at Valentino, Gucci, Roksanda, Givenchy and Hermès. It'll give you the sensation of being enveloped in a Mediterranean sunset, wherever you are.

Heels vs flats

It's no longer a question of either/or. Designers seem to have cottoned on to the fact that - gasp - women enjoy wearing flats most of the time but will sometimes endure a higher heel, particularly if it's of a sturdy variety.

Saint Laurent had killer 1980s-style stilettos with wowzer YSL logos, but there were also shiny perforated lace-ups and fur-lined boating booties. Odd, but we enjoyed the juxtaposition, Monsieur Vaccarello.

The big earrings

The statement earring is going nowhere. (It can't it's too heavy.) Whether you wear it singly - as at Mary Katrantzou, Stella Jean or JW Anderson (pictured above) - or in the traditional double, yes-I-have-two-ears style (see Dolce & Gabbana), you need your piercings.

At Balenciaga, just to be different, they had the same style of earring in two different sizes.

The new work trouser

A few short-memoried designers tried to convince us we're ready for the return of the Nineties hipster trouser (we're not), but others were kinder to women's bodies. A pleasing new trouser shape was roomy, high-waisted and either cuffed, elasticated or hemmed at the bottom. It's the sort of thing that husbands and sons may question - but, please, just carry on regardless.

Excellent examples were at Gucci, Chloé, Lemaire, Stella McCartney, Armani and Céline.

The big white dress

The opposite of the little black dress is spring 2017's BWD. Bold rather than romantic, whimsical or bridal, it's mid-length, long or big-sleeved, and rounded at the shoulder. At Loewe, it was gathered at the hem, at Stella McCartney it had a soft corset, and at Céline (pictured far right), it came with a high neck and tie waist. Simone Rocha's were like oversized Communion dresses - one in broderie anglaise with puffed sleeves.

Dresses over skirts/trousers

Not the easiest styling trick to pull off, but Rosie Assoulin made it work by echoing voluminous shapes with high-impact accessories.

The oversized jacket

What to wear with your new roomy trouser? The new roomy jacket, of course. At Lemaire, Céline and Balenciaga, tailored blazers came oversized with a 1980s feel - big on the shoulders, narrower in the body. Think of it as the Frankenstein's monster fit. Honestly, it will grow on you.

Historic glamour

The past is a foreign country and designers keep visiting. Burberry harked back to the Elizabethans with a show inspired by Virginia Woolf's 'Orlando'. Advocating ruff-style frilly collars for all, it was a fitting introduction to mens- and womenswear on the catwalk at the same time.

JW Anderson had Henry VIII- style quilted jackets, while the Victorian, Edwardian and belle époque eras chimed for Erdem, Simone Rocha, Dries Van Noten and French new kid on the block Jacquemus.

The trench

No one missed the memo that the trench is the coat of next season. London, New York, Paris and Milan united to champion it. Marni's entire collection seemed inspired by the trench, and Bottega Veneta put Lauren Hutton in one.

John Galliano made it his opener at Maison Margiela. Sacai's had a drop waist and Balenciaga's had giant squared-off shoulders.

Simone Rocha had loads of them and Moschino even made a trompe l'oeil version with a hand holding the lapel.

Hair in brief

2017-01-05_sty_27180659_I3.JPG
British model Ruth Bell when she opened at Dior
 

For those brave enough, the new haircut is short, but not that short. The buzzcut that has been trendy for the past two seasons has grown into a softer crop - as seen on British model Ruth Bell when she opened at Dior (pictured above). At Balenciaga, Sunniva Vaatevik sported a hacked-off bob; while off the catwalk, Style.com's Yasmin Sewell debuted a new short 'do for shows. © Telegraph

Irish Independent

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