Friday 17 August 2018

How to wear... autumn trends

With Fashion Month officially at a close, Meadhbh McGrath highlights the takeaways from each capital in our next season preview

Roaring success: Leopard prints were on display in Tom Ford’s collection in New York. Photo: Getty Images
Roaring success: Leopard prints were on display in Tom Ford’s collection in New York. Photo: Getty Images

Meadhbh McGrath

The chaos of Fashion Month is finally at an end. The spectacle came to an arresting close on Tuesday with lavish presentations from Chanel, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton in Paris.

There was plenty to get people talking - New York, typically considered the most commercially minded and thus least exciting of the fashion capitals, was host to many of the season's most thrilling shows, from Tom Ford's glittering display and Marc Jacobs' ode to 80s excess to Calvin Klein's popcorn-filled dystopia and Alexander Wang's 'executive realness' collection, presented in the old Condé Nast offices.

Carolina Herrera offered a fashion farewell with a moving tribute to her own signature crisp shirts, while Anna Wintour rubbed shoulders with rap star Cardi B.

The US Vogue editor found herself with an even more unlikely seat partner on the FROW in London - the Queen, who made a surprise appearance to award Richard Quinn with a prize for innovative British design. Christopher Bailey presented his final collection for Burberry after 17 years with the brand, with Cara Delevingne making a runway return to close out the show in a rainbow faux fur cape.

In Milan, Alessandro Michele staged another show-stopper for Gucci, in which models carried baby dragons and replica versions of their own severed heads. At Dolce & Gabbana, models were eschewed for the early part of the show, where drones served to present the autumn handbag collection.

Maria Grazia Chiuri tried to tap into the political zeitgeist again with another feminist slogan-heavy runway for Dior, and a riot broke out in front of the hugely hyped Off-White.

Head gear by Milan’s Versace. Photo: AFP/Getty Images
Head gear by Milan’s Versace. Photo: AFP/Getty Images

Balenciaga's Demna Gvasalia offered up an outerwear extravaganza with up to eight layers of coats, while Karl Lagerfeld headed to the woods with an actual forest setting for Chanel's show.

But what does it mean for your wardrobe? Here are four of the key trends to know for next season.

Leopard print

Animal prints are never long out of style and the New York designers have decreed autumn is the time for a major comeback. At Victoria Beckham, the hero piece was a belted chenille coat, while Max Mara presented head-to-toe leopard looks.

But it was Tom Ford's high-glitz, high-glam iteration that set Instagram alight. These aren't the spots of the 60s mods ­- the mood is fresh and modern, whether rendered in electric hues, contrasting sizes or unexpected fabrics.

Fair Isle knits at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi in London. Photo: AFP/Getty Images
Fair Isle knits at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi in London. Photo: AFP/Getty Images

Head gear

Hats were big news last autumn, but next season the trend is adapting to include everything from enormous brims pulled low to obscure the eyes to full-coverage balaclavas, seen at Calvin Klein and Gucci. Far more accessible were Versace's hooded dresses and silk scarves swathed around models' heads. The styling trick worth stealing? Uncover one ear to show off a statement earring.

Cocktail knitwear

In 2017 we saw the return of the cardigan, glammed up for evening, and now designers are advocating grandad knitwear for cocktail hour. In London, Simone Rocha and Erdem paired frothy gowns and brocade with chunky knits, while Christopher Kane adorned oversized jumpers with crystals. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi presented an "eco-feminist" collection, where handkerchief-hem skirts were styled with spliced cable and Fair Isle knits inspired by seaweeds.

If these are anything to go by, it looks like it'll be a cosy Christmas party season.

Black is the new black

The colour of the season? While neon shades cropped up, designers frequently came back to black, whether it was Versace's LBDs or Saint Laurent's moody partywear. The first half of creative director Anthony Vaccarello's collection, showcased under the Eiffel Tower, featured an almost entirely black palette of leather shorts, velvet jackets, sheer blouses and platform boots. Finish off with some chandelier-worthy earrings and you'll be far from the gothic stereotype.

Black magic: Saint Laurent showed off moody partywear in Paris. Photo: Getty Images
Black magic: Saint Laurent showed off moody partywear in Paris. Photo: Getty Images

Irish Independent

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