Style Style Talk

Sunday 22 September 2019

A/W19 fashion report - what's a power sleeve and why is grunge coming back?

Bairbre Power spoke to Shelly Corkery, fashion director of Brown Thomas, to get the inside track on designer trends coming our way

Power Sleeves: Alexander McQueen jacket €4590.
Power Sleeves: Alexander McQueen jacket €4590.
BTS Roksanda gown €3,435
TOUGH LOVE : Dior hat with veil, €650, Dior red and black checked taffeta anorak, €2,20
Paco Rabanne jacket, €990, shirt, €450, trousers, €620
Shelly Corkery, Brown Thomas fashion director wearing Prada
Valentino dress €3980.
Dries Van Noten lavender midi dress, €1,345
New Femininity Valentino dress €2,200
Balenciaga coat €2490
Alexander McQueen tailored wool and silk blend jacket with zip detailing, €3,590
La Vie En Rose Richard Quinn floral print coat, €2,955
Bottega Veneta knit €1,800
Rejina Pyo lamé dress, €850
Celine jacket €2,900
Marc Jacobs cape €2,880
Roksanda silk gown, €3,435
Chloé crop knit €690 Chloé skirt €1150
Urban Explorer Stella McCartney dress €1,095
Isabel Marant 'Victoria' cool crepe mini dress, €2,300
Givenchy jacket €3100 trousers €750
Checkmate: Dior double-breasted blazer, €3,100
Bairbre Power

Bairbre Power

Power sleeves intrigue me, not because of my surname but because the 80s 'power shoulders' swallowed me up and I'll admit I became fascinated from the first moment I saw the tailored McQueen jacket (pictured below) in a lightweight wool and silk blend with volume, rose-inspired sleeves. Horticulture meets tailoring, I'm liking the sound of this season big time. But how best to work it? Shelly Corkery, fashion director of the Brown Thomas Group, dissects, parses and analyses the new season designer trends and takes them right into my wardrobe.

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Checkmate: Dior double-breasted blazer, €3,100

There's certainly lots to consider, especially the notion of strong colour clashing, perfectly illustrated in the Roksanda dress (pictured below) in cerise and mustard silk and a seductive combination of sculpted low back and voluminous skirt that billows when you walk.

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BTS Roksanda gown €3,435

The power sleeves Shelly explains, are one of the sub trends to watch out for including checks and great outerwear. The attention-grabbing power sleeves go from bell-sleeved and fingertip extra long to playful balloon shapes and the cold-shoulder across all types of clothing. I suspect some of you might just have stepped away from trouser suits because of former 'workwear' prejudices. Well, you can recant that notion right now. The summer built bridges and introduced us to the concept of the vibrant trouser suit and this season, the concept travels further and goes totally Out of Office.

In the hands of Paco Rabanne, a new label to Brown Thomas this season, a sophisticated, classically tailored suit is showcased in an elegant style in a palette of checks and shades of grey and black.

Grunge is back but this time, it's done grown ups with a feminine twist on black sheer gothic.

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TOUGH LOVE : Dior hat with veil, €650, Dior red and black checked taffeta anorak, €2,20

Couture meets Seattle's streetwear. Dior did it with utter fabulosity. A red and black taffeta anorak with check motif (above) styled with an iconic Dior small brim bucket hat complete with veil.

Shelly reports how "Autumn Winter 2019 explores a return to the mystical and the unexplained, with a focus on romantic, vibrant and gothic themes. Grunge is back for the season ahead in the form of Tough Love, one of the key trends and one in which Muiccia Prada fused romance and fear from Mark Shelly's Frankenstein." A Tough Love gets lots of visibility this season, especially in the Prada clothing line and her seriously attitude boots

Meanwhile, the New Femininity trend brings the return of a prettified aesthetic. The art of draping, beautifully executed by both Dries Van Noten and Valentino as evidenced in pictures. Shelly reports overtly pretty detailing of ruched satins and exaggerated silhouettes in watercolour pastels which move attractively through pinks to lavender, lilac and aubergine.

Be sure and stop to smell the roses because it's definitely the go-to flora in the popular La Vie En Rose trend and you can introduce it into your wardrobe on lots of scales. Once again Richard Quinn excelled at telling his original print story in voluminious shapes.

So Bourgeous is what Shelly classifies as a "non-fashion" trend for this season. Spotted at Dior, Isabel Marant and Celine, lovers of chic vintage will adore it. Quite simply, "it channels the 1970s era bourgeois babe and her impeccable wardrobe of sensible skirts and neat blazers. Luxurious cords, wools and tweed all play up the vintage mood, while leather and leopard print offers a subversive twist. Celine showcases modern feminine tailoring for the season ahead with designer Hedi Slimane pairing knee-length check skirts with crisp white fitted shirts.

The Urban Explorer is about comfort, practicality and timeless pieces like the trench coat while the Purist trend is a mix of feminine and masculine, best epitomised by tailored trousers worn with silk blouses.

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Isabel Marant 'Victoria' cool crepe mini dress, €2,300

In complete contrast, the Daylight Disco vibe as seen at Paco Rabanne and my new favourite label, 16 Arlington. Don't be baffled by this, it is night invades day so it's yes to fun party wear pieces and sequins and if the reverse thrust of this confuses you, just know that it works day to night so it brings a total flexibility and - no - you don't have to wait until the Christmas party season to break out those sequins. 

Irish Independent

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