Style Fashion

Sunday 20 May 2018

Rodarte autumn/winter 2010/11 collection

Models walk the runway at the Rodarte S/S 2010 show in New York. Photo: Getty Images
Models walk the runway at the Rodarte S/S 2010 show in New York. Photo: Getty Images

Hilary Alexander

Sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy's latest collection had a dreamlike aesthetic.

In past seasons, Rodarte, the extraordinary, handmade, alternative fashion label designed by the two sisters from Pasadena, California, Kate and Laura Mulleavy, has zeroed in on a rather tough, warrior-woman approach.

It was refreshing, therefore to see the girls moving to a softer, quieter tempo, at New York Fashion Week this season.

There was an almost dreamlike quality to the parade of collage-dresses, handcrafted in wisps of crochet, ripped cheesecloth, lace and rose-printed chiffon.

Pieces of chunky, cream, hand-knit were assembled together with remnant-like scraps of ethnic-print cotton. Floral chiffon layers, trailing scarves of fabric from shoulders and waists, or featuring a string of pearls across the spine, floated above petticoats of cream lace.

Patchworked skirts in a potpourri of fabrics, and fringed with hanks of wool, were worn over embroidered tulle leggings, or crochet socks, with multicoloured, lace-up shoes, with carved heels.

Kate Mulleavy described the collection as starting from a concept of border towns, where people live in limbo, almost sleepwalking.

“We played a bit with the Mexican aesthetic, with the crochet and lace, and the florals. The challenge was to keep it poetic and ethereal, without getting political,” she said.

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