Riccardo Tisci wowed with a tight collection of couture creations.
The young Italian, Riccardo Tisci, now in his fifth year at the house of Givenchy, packed a powerful punch in his strong, bright collection for spring/summer 2010.
It was also one of the shortest fashion shows on record – 22 ensembles and all over in just seven minutes; and that included Tisci taking his bow!
Speaking backstage before the show, the designer said he had gone back to the early 1970s and the start of fashion’s obsession with eroticism – something which was evident in the inclusion of transparent fabrics and sheer bras.
More evident, however, was just how far the maison has moved away from the long-ago ‘muse’, Audrey Hepburn. The mood was more Studio 54, with its disco-bright, glam-rock, sequinned jumpsuits, in graphic patterns, glitter-ball eye make-up, and electric ball gowns, with golden crystal bustiers, and shadow-dyed from neon-lilac to intense velvet, and finishing in bouncing, pom-pom trains of ruffled tulle.
But there was equally immaculate tailoring, too, exemplified in the concentration on tailcoats. One, scissor -sharp in black barathea with lacquered lapels, came with tuxedo-trousers, worn over a feathered tunic, shadow-dyed from ivory to kohl-black.
Other tailcoats were in jet-black caviar beads, over a midnight blue jumpsuit, or were worked a profusion of black lace, jet, lace-covered crystals, and encrusted appliqués of Guipure, over a long, dress in layers of lace.
Tisci did not forget his fascination with feathers, either. Skirts, collars and tops were fashioned from black vulture, emu and crow feathers, gleaming in a quite sinister fashion in the follow- spots, mounted high on the ceiling of the Salon Impérial – Yves Saint Laurent’s old haunt – in the Hotel Westin.
The eclectic mood of the collection was mirrored in the front row line-up, which included Salvador Dali’s former muse, the actress, Amanda Lear, the former model, Stella Tennant, and the rapper, Kanye West, and his girlfriend, Amber Rose.