Paris Haute Couture: Christian Dior spring/summer 2010 collection
Pounding hooves on turf signalled a racing start for a ‘show ring’ collection by John Galliano for Christian Dior at the haute couture, spring/summer 2010 season in Paris today.
Drawing inspiration from all things equestrian, Galliano re-created a spectacle inspired by dressage.
Top-hatted and veiled, with their hair caught in oversized snoods, and brandishing four-foot long riding crops, the models pranced through the grand salons of the Dior maison on the Avenue Montaigne, with the precision of thoroughbreds.
Jackets, in hunting pink, or English wool checks, were precision-tailored, detailed with silver buttons and extreme peplums, and allied to long, riding skirts, designed in side-saddle style in a mix of pleats and draped folds.
For evening, Galliano switched his focus to America, drawing on multiple references, including the era of "The Gibson Girl" considered the ideal of Stateside feminine Beauty in the early 20th century, and the eccentric millionairess and style icon, Millicent Rogers.
Short cocktail dresses, as delicate as a meringue, came in a froth of hand-embroidered, pastel lace and tulle, accessorised with chiffon-swathed picture hats, worn aslant, the better to display a stray ringlet, and the models’ luminous make-up and eyes, shadowed in jade and lilac.
Bewitching, sculpted ball-gowns in extraordinary colour combinations of amethyst and chocolate, claret and raspberry, or olive and petrol-blue, generated gasps of admiration from a front-row, celebrity line-up which included Kylie Minogue, Dita Von Teese and the French actress, Nora Arnezeder, the current "face" of the Dior “New Look” handbag.
Halter-neck, shirtwaist bodices and bustiers, encrusted with jewels and crystals, topped extreme, crinoline-style skirts, in gleaming duchesse satin, which cascaded in elaborate folds, like the petals of an exotic bloom.
Galliano took his bow in full dressage kit, kneeling to kiss the hands of his models.
All that was missing was the snorting steed. “He’s outside, grazing in the Avenue Montaigne,” Galliano joked.
The Paris haute couture season continued last night with the showing of the Italian couturier, Giorgio Armani’s ‘Privé’ collection.
Karl Lagerfeld opens the show schedule tomorrow with his eagerly-awaited collection for Chanel.