Monday 22 January 2018

New York Fashion Week: Victoria Beckham's sister line, Victoria

Victoria, Victoria Beckham autumn/winter 2012
Victoria, Victoria Beckham autumn/winter 2012
David Beckham posted this photo of victoria on his Facebook page with the caption 'So proud of my wife taking #NYFW by the balls' on 15th Feb 2012.
Victoria Beckham poses in New York to launch Britain's GREAT Campaign
Victoria Beckham shopping on February 14, 2012 in New York City.
Victoria Beckham with daughter Harper
Victoria Beckham - Runway - Fall 2012 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Luke Leitch

Frockerella-meets-collarful: playful prints, zhooshy jacquard and a (slightly) narrower line at Victoria Beckham's sister line, Victoria.

Before the clothes, here is today's New York Fashion Week baby-Harper update.

Pictures: Victoria by Victoria Beckham autumn/winter 2012

Harper was on her mothers hip, wearing black tights, white leather booties and what mothers in the audience confidently reckoned looked like a Bonpoint frilly blouse in a very autumn winter shade of dusty brown - and a matching ribbon in her hair.

Pictures: Victoria Beckhams mainline autumn/winter 2012 collection

"She likes to watch," said Victoria as she took her seat. Harper gurgled: "now, don't do anything untoward."

Last season's debut collection of this second, more relaxed and less-expensive Victoria Beckham line has been widely worn (Michelle Williams, Julianne Moore, Celine Buckens) and sold strongly at Harvey Nichols, Harrods and Net-a-Porter.

"The response has been quite breathtaking," said Victoria: "I want to give my customer and the retailer what they want. It's still girly, it's still fun and it's still fresh and you can see the personality."

There were 20 dresses (Victoria says she wants to focus purely on dresses for now, not to branch out into separates) on the presentation catwalk and plenty more colourways backstage.

The line for this collection was subtly narrower than the last, though still much more relaxed than mainline, and incorporated rich jacquards used as skirt-panels. There was also one full-jacquard, an iridescently-glimmering silver and black above the knee number. Again she used prints; in the swan design on the white collared and cuffed dark navy dress worn by Victoria herself ("people say 'why a swan' and I said 'why not'), in "frockerella" (which uses the early collection sketches) and in "collarful" (sketches of collar-shapes).

There were hints of American High School uniform in the pleated vaguely cheerleaderish skirts of one dusky pink "collarful" dress and the distorted, muted-blue argyle print on another. Most of the pieces were just-about-knee length but one or two, including a beatifully forgiving and demure purple-bodied red collared dress.

The shoes were part of a new collaboration with Walter Steiger, said Victoria. Expect the new-season orders to roll in.

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