| 9.3°C Dublin

Long Nights: Irish designer Tim Ryan on his new collection


Dress, €3,325. All photos: Felipe Pagani

Dress, €3,325. All photos: Felipe Pagani

Jumper, €560;
skirt, €1,585

Jumper, €560; skirt, €1,585

Dress, €3,325

Dress, €3,325

Dress, €1,265

Dress, €1,265


Dress, €3,325. All photos: Felipe Pagani

Tim Ryan left Ireland at the height of the boom, to try something new. Six years on, Tim’s move away from the land he dearly loves shows that good things definitely come from following one’s instinct and taking action. His winter/spring collection — Tim identifies seasons differently — is one of his most sophisticated and sexy yet.

There was no real reason to leave Ireland at the time. I just wanted a change, to try living somewhere else,” Tim explained. “We were doing very well, selling a lot. But I had reached a certain level. I wanted to try to make my work more international. London held more opportunities.”

Important developments arose from his move — he got to show at Paris and London fashion weeks, and Hannah Moore, of Bismarck Phillips PR, presented his collection to Browns, the UK’s most important independent designer store.

Today, Tim’s work sells both in the prestigious store on Sloane Street — the Rodeo Drive of London for high-end designer brands — and Browns Focus, its edgy, younger store on South Molton Street.

“Focus will buy the more fitted, revealing, darker, younger things. Sloane Street buys the less revealing pieces,” Tim explained. “There is young and cool and there is old and cool. As far as I am concerned, all my clients are cool, regardless of age.”

Tim has always attracted discerning fashion mavens of all ages. He does a collection and everyone goes for different pieces.

“I have always been conscious of making things comfortable,” he said.

“That is the great thing about knit; it sits where you want it to sit.”

Tim sells exclusively in Ireland at Elaine Curtis, of Carlow, and Bow in Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, Dublin. They also take special orders.

The Browns factor continues to sprinkle fairy dust. “Browns’ former buying director, Erin Mullaney, has created avenue32.com. It will be the site, where people will be able to buy special pieces that designers do. I will have my own area, like a store within a store. They want each designer to be very active with our content. It will be very beautiful,” Tim told me.

In recent seasons, I find myself most admiring the collections of the maestro of body-con, Alaia, who does some of his best work in yarn. Like Alaia, the current collection on our pages today is one of Tim’s sexiest. Yet it, too, is very covered up.

“Always, I am concerned with construction,” he said. “The winter before, I did a lot of short pieces. It was anchored on the waist. This season, the collection is hanging from the shoulder. Long feels very right just now.”

In Tim Ryan’s hands, it sure is.