Wednesday 13 December 2017

Gareth Pugh shows fetish PFW line

Gareth Pugh spring summer 2012
Gareth Pugh spring summer 2012

Gareth Pugh’s Spring/Summer 12 collection opened with a video of a naked Crystal Renn.

The British designer has become renowned for his fetish aesthetic over recent years, and his show at Paris Fashion Week yesterday was no different.

Gareth Pugh spring summer 2012 collection

The runway show opened with a video featuring famed model Renn, who was bound and “completely ferocious”, reports WWD.

It set the tone for the rest of the presentation, where models came down the catwalk in clothes which were like cages – and some were even muzzled.

“And while darkness is Pugh’s sweet spot, this pushed it to an aggressive extreme.

“The opening looks were veritable cages — coats made of stiff horizontal strips that encased the body and funnelled up around the face. Whether they were meant to protect or defend, the message was imposing isolation — stay away!” the publication explained.

As has so far been the case at Paris Fashion Week the palette was monochrome, so models wore black mesh dresses with similar jackets over the top, paired with black over-the-knee boots and snoods.

While many of the pieces were like armour, the use of mesh and cutaways also gave them a sexy edge as flesh poked through.

While Pugh is renowned for his showmanship and for creating beautiful, if not wholly wearable, pieces, this collection offered something different.

There were beautiful form-fitting white dresses with black blocks down the sides and across the neckline, which were easy to wear. Skinny trousers were paired with a tight, zip-up waistcoat and eveningwear came in the form of stunning silver dresses which were sometimes tight, and at other points floor-length and shimmering.

The collection has drawn mixed reactions, with some questioning the wearability of the caged pieces. It seems they were merely for technical show though, a point laboured at the end of the presentation.

The film screen erupted into purple flames at the end, after which models stormed the runway in tight purple creations. They were warriors, wearing form-fitting trousers and tank tops, or tight bodysuits with a flowing section billowing from the waist. All had their heads totally covered in hats made to look like purple candle flames.

Less of a spectacle was Dries Van Noten’s show, where clothes were beautifully formed and incredibly chic.

The designer previously stated the collection was about “elegance and beauty” and was inspired by old Spanish and Italian couture.

So prints were key, and were inspired by pictures from the 17th century, images of cities and the jungle. The designer masterfully combined these looks, showing a dress with a palm tree print that included a city-inspired waistband.

The shapes of the clothes were modern – palazzo pants, cocoon dresses and cropped jackets all popped up at different times. Frills were another big look, featuring down the front of dresses, on collars and pockets and there were peplums.

Paris Fashion Week continues today with collections by Balenciaga, Manish Arora, Rick Owens and Balmain.

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