Tuesday 16 January 2018

Gareth Pugh autumn/winter 2011 at Paris Fashion Week

Gareth Pugh autumn/winter 2011 at Paris Fashion Week
Gareth Pugh autumn/winter 2011 at Paris Fashion Week

Hilary Alexander

Gareth Pugh returns to the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week with gothic Star Wars parade.

After three seasons of showing his collections in experimental videos, the avant-garde British designer, Gareth Pugh, returned to the catwalk at the Paris prêt-à-porter season this evening.

View Gareth Pugh collection here

His autumn/winter 2011 collection was a dramatic continuation of the fashion video made by the British-based film-maker, Ruth Hogben, which was premiered at Pitti Immagine in Florence in January.

The collection, like the video, was inspired by the centuries-old tradition of Florentine art and culture, and referenced Catholic iconography in rich shades of deep-blue and gold.

Pugh staged his showing in the Ecole des Beaux Arts, to a thunderous, pounding soundtrack which perfectly suited the Stars Wars-style designs, razor-sharp in black leather and stretch, bisected with golden zips, and worn with fearsome wedge-sole boots, and "alien eyes" courtesy of what looked like the gold metallic "glasses" worn in a sun-tanning salon.

Sculpted, leather "frock-coats", with skin-tight trousers, suggested a cyber-age dandy. Striped leather ponchos, offered a softer silhouette, also suggested in the wafting gothic cloaks in chiffon and the extreme-palazzo trousers, as wide as a house, worn by both the male and female models.

"Articulated" leather body-con dresses, engineered in remarkable set-square patterns, defined the silhouette.

Brilliant blue crepe and gleaming gold metallic sequins, embroidered in a tile pattern, provided a colour burst to offset the midnight parade, while hooded "witches" cloaks, bright blue "eye shades" and teeth gleaming under the spotlights from LED mouthpieces created the effect of creatures from a distant planet.

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