Saturday 26 May 2018

SS16 to be a season of diversity and contradictions

Brown Thomas launch the brand new Spring Summer International fashion collections at the flagship Grafton St store. Pictured (l to r) Thalia wears Stella McCartney Dress eur3445, Tabea wears Lanvin dress eur2165 and Maria wears Dries Van Noten. Photograph:
Brown Thomas launch the brand new Spring Summer International fashion collections at the flagship Grafton St store. Pictured (l to r) Thalia wears Stella McCartney Dress eur3445, Tabea wears Lanvin dress eur2165 and Maria wears Dries Van Noten. Photograph:
Sarah wears Mugler dress €2,295
Sarah wears Alexander McQueen dress eur3095 and Thalia wears David Koma top eur860 and David Koma skirt eur785. Photograph: Leon Farrell / Photocall Ireland
Bairbre Power

Bairbre Power

It's a leggy season where you will definitely be showing off your shoulders and you can follow a tailored, monochrome dressing code or throw the kitchen sink at it and embrace the colourful new trend of Eccentric Maximalism.

It's all about mixing and matching print, texture, lavish embellishment and layering with gusto, and confidence. Far from looking like a bag lady gone wrong in clashing colours, this look was beautiful in the hands of Dries Van Noten at the Brown Thomas spring summer 2016 press show yesterday.

The one new name which absolutely turned heads at the breakfast show in the chic accessories hall was David Koma.

His crepe pieces in cream, black and a monochrome are available to buy in the three Brown Thomas regional stores, part of a strategic move to elevate the brand mixes.

David Koma is also the designer at Thierry Mugler, one of the big new brands at BTs Grafton Street this season.

On closer inspection, it really is quite an exquisite range, particularly the cream dress (pictured left) with its asymmetric lines, tailoring, splicing and glorious pleats.

Mark my words, Thierry Mugler is one label which will be on everyone's lips this season, a real eye opener.

The one look you can't fail to notice this season is the encouragement across the designer brands to show off your shoulders.

The black Alexander McQueen dress (pictured above right) has spandex so it behaves impeccably as it skims the body.

Victoria Beckham and Stella McCartney were both standout stars at yesterday's show.

Stella's egg yolk yellow dress (above) has a hardened edge in the hemline, almost like ballast in a ship to keep it in line which, in turn, helps that sexy low scoop back sit so well.

The show opened with Peter Pilotto, who featured lovely asymmetric lines and, you've guessed it, show-off shoulders.

Lanvin was supremely tempting with a red raw edged dress with bows and ruffles (pictured above, centre).

Slinky and very feminine, it was cool and edgy and at the same time, feminine but not in the traditional, fitted way. For me, this was a stand-out season and given that this is Alber Elbaz's last season with the French design house, it is a farewell collection to cherish and one that the wise fashion buyers will collect.

Ruffles and frills are a subtrend of the boudoir trend which has emerged as part of the 'New Romanticism' trend.

Favourite pieces in the show included the Erdem black and white dress with Victorian touches, buttons at the neck and exposed shoulders.

Irish Independent

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