Monday 16 December 2019

Rocha in full bloom as she makes her mark on London

Bairbre Power

Bairbre Power

Mad flowers, yards of whisper-light marabou feather trim and red floral prints were on show as Simone Rocha's creations burst down the aisle at London Fashion Week.

Simone only celebrated turning 28 last Thursday yet the critics feel the Dubliner possesses a remarkable maturity and has a gifted ability to expand her aesthetic and signature handwriting every season.

Her SS15 collection show at St Andrew's church in Holborn had a true sense of occasion yesterday and guests sat in pews, waiting with reverence.

To a sudden burst of organ music the first of the 35 models emerged in a black strapless dress with right angled asymmetric hemline, guests held their breath and drank in the vista of wave-after-wave of different colour stories stepping through the aisles and across the checkerboard floor.

There was a fidelity there for successful silhouettes which have Simone's DNA written all over them such as the dresses with exaggerated side panelling. Concepts for accessories were reprised but developed in new, innovative formats and fabrications.

Simone's tulle tailoring was faultless. She excels at originality and introduced us to old school, Hong Kong oilcloth for floral brogues to the thoroughly wearable, stunning white wallpaper brocade dresses with scalloped edge, a detail she also introduced to her gloves.

A model walks the runway at the Simone Rocha show during London Fashion Week
A model walks the runway at the Simone Rocha show during London Fashion Week
Models present creations from the Simone Rocha collection during the 2015 Spring / Summer London Fashion Week
Models present creations from the Simone Rocha collection during the 2015 Spring / Summer London Fashion Week
Simone Rocha

They were greeted with a sharp intake of breath and ditto the white dresses covered with embroidered flowers on top and multi leafed Carrickmacross crocheted flowers on the bottom.

Venturing into floral prints, Simone gave it everything, adding individual, appliqued flower heads which created a heightened and glorious, tufted 3D effect.

The silver and gold metallic jacquard dresses which closed the show were exquisite and trimmed with marabou but just how practical the cosy slippers and footwear trimmed with feathers will be is another

Those covetable large vanity case handbags bags that Simone introduced last year are back again, trimmed with feathers. A belted trench coat is far from boring in the hands of Simone who gave it to us in pink and buttery gold but I liked it best embroidered with red flowers and worn with pink brogues.

The designer's father, John Rocha, admitted he was finding it "a little odd" being at London Fashion Week without a show of his own, having retired from that aspect of his design career earlier this year.

Living & Leisure: P42-43

Irish Independent

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