Sunday 17 December 2017

A flurry of fur on New York catwalks

A model at the Victoria, Victoria Beckham autumn 2013 show in New York.
A model at the Victoria, Victoria Beckham autumn 2013 show in New York.

Samantha Critchell New York

Rain, snow, ice. There's a lot of grumbling about the stiletto-adverse weather at New York Fashion Week. But there's a silver lining: cozy coats, especially styles with oversized fur hoods, never looked better.

Victoria Beckham's menswear-inspired collection simply entitled Victoria, featured greys, shots of colour with taxi cab yellow, sophisticated plaid and cobalt blue.

"It's for the engaged intellectual with a sense of humour," said Beckham.

Phillip Lim, for his 3.1 brand, sent out his big coats in navy and black during a show in a cavernous space south of the Lincoln Centre tents.

Houndstooth set off one of Tommy Hilfiger's coats for women. On a bomber jacket, he moved the comfy lining to the outside, putting the traditional plaid on the inside.

In a romantic violet, Ralph Rucci sent out a coat in sable, while Alexander Wang stayed mostly with greys for big coats paired with fur hand-warmers to the elbow.

Belstaff's coats were tempting in earth-tone shearlings, and KaufmanFranco wrapped a tough-girl muse in a little luxury, lining a black leather driving coat with mink.

There were some yummy coats at Carolina Herrera. One of the nicest came in angora, with a fox collar. It was paired with a sandstone wool jacket and matching pants. She also had a set of fox fur sleeves worn over a wool and silk blouse and silk skirt.

Brandon Holley, editor-in-chief of 'Lucky' magazine, said she had never seen so much fur in a runway season – and New York is only halfway done with its previews.

Ultimately, the consumer will likely wind up with some great outerwear outfits, including military jackets, traditional wool coats and some edgier leather bombers. "And the beautiful fur on hoods will be an accent on many of them," she added.

"Coats are very strong," agreed Avril Graham, executive fashion and beauty editor at 'Harper's Bazaar'. "It's something everyone wants to buy."

Top of her list so far is the black leather and fur one by Wang.

The eight days of previews end on Thursday, when the crowds head to London, then Milan and on to Paris.

Irish Independent

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