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Classic houses of Paris are still doing it

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A model presents a creation by Chinese designer Yiqing Yin as part of her Spring/Summer 2015 women's ready-to-wear collection for fashion house Leonard during Paris Fashion Week September 29, 2014.   REUTERS/Charles Platiau  (FRANCE - Tags: FASHION)

A model presents a creation by Chinese designer Yiqing Yin as part of her Spring/Summer 2015 women's ready-to-wear collection for fashion house Leonard during Paris Fashion Week September 29, 2014. REUTERS/Charles Platiau (FRANCE - Tags: FASHION)

REUTERS

A model presents a creation by designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim as part of their Autumn/Winter 2015/2016 women's ready-to-wear collection for Japanese fashion house Kenzo during Paris Fashion Week March 8, 2015.     REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes (FRANCE  - Tags: FASHION)

A model presents a creation by designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim as part of their Autumn/Winter 2015/2016 women's ready-to-wear collection for Japanese fashion house Kenzo during Paris Fashion Week March 8, 2015. REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes (FRANCE - Tags: FASHION)

REUTERS

A model wears a creation for Vivienne Westwood's ready-to-wear Fall-winter 2015-2016 fashion collection during the Paris Fashion Week, Saturday March 7, 2015 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

A model wears a creation for Vivienne Westwood's ready-to-wear Fall-winter 2015-2016 fashion collection during the Paris Fashion Week, Saturday March 7, 2015 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

AP

A model wears a creation as part of Alexander McQueen's ready-to-wear fall-winter 2015-2016 fashion collection presented during the Paris fashion week, in Paris, France, Tuesday, March 10, 2015. (AP Photo/Jacques Brinon)

A model wears a creation as part of Alexander McQueen's ready-to-wear fall-winter 2015-2016 fashion collection presented during the Paris fashion week, in Paris, France, Tuesday, March 10, 2015. (AP Photo/Jacques Brinon)

AP

A model wears a creation for Saint Laurent's Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Ready to Wear fashion collection presented in Paris, as part of Paris Fashion Week, Monday, March 9, 2015. (AP Photo/Jacques Brinon)

A model wears a creation for Saint Laurent's Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Ready to Wear fashion collection presented in Paris, as part of Paris Fashion Week, Monday, March 9, 2015. (AP Photo/Jacques Brinon)

AP

A model wears a creation for Stella McCartney's ready-to-wear fall-winter 2015-2016 fashion collection presented during Paris fashion week, in Paris, France, Monday, March 9, 2015. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

A model wears a creation for Stella McCartney's ready-to-wear fall-winter 2015-2016 fashion collection presented during Paris fashion week, in Paris, France, Monday, March 9, 2015. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

AP

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A model presents a creation by Chinese designer Yiqing Yin as part of her Spring/Summer 2015 women's ready-to-wear collection for fashion house Leonard during Paris Fashion Week September 29, 2014. REUTERS/Charles Platiau (FRANCE - Tags: FASHION)

It was all fun and frolics at Paris fashion week's presentations for next autumn/winter.

Paris is the last date in the catwalk presentations for the next season and the city knows it is today, without doubt, the centre of the fashion world with its unrivaled line-up of the world's most important labels - from Yohji Yamamoto and Celine, Chanel and Louis Vuitton, to Stella McCartney and Lanvin.

As befits the most important fashion capital, celebrities were everywhere and doing everything. At Valentino, Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson robbed the real models of their front pages, as they revisited their 'modelling' roles in Zoolander and walked the catwalk dressed in gorgeous embroidered coats and pyjama style ensembles.

At Chanel, Kendall Jenner sat with model Cara Delevingne as they 'ate' croissants at the bistro bar set that Karl Lagerfeld created to showcase his collection for the house.

Everywhere, it seemed, was an extremely unhappy-faced Kanye West, sometimes with wife, Kim, nearby. But not always. At Stella McCartney, one of Stella's best in years - full of beauty as well as her trademark sharp tailoring - Cara Delevingne seemed to be very busy doing selfies of herself with a grumpy looking Kanye, an affable looking Woody Harrelson and a genially willing, Sir Paul McCartney.

Paris was also consistent in delivering the strange and the wonderful on its catwalks. From the eccentric and dramatic, like the almost costume drama presentation of Vivienne Westwood, to the dark, heroine chic-esque punk babes of Saint Laurent, to the monochrome, 3-dimensional constructs of the designer's designer, the brilliant Yohji Yamamoto.

Louis Vuitton under the stewardship of Nicolas Ghesquiere's creativity was the hot ticket to have.

The big players were all out - from Xavier Niel, founder of French broadband Iliad, to Dior's chief executive, Sidney Toledano and of course the ubiquitous-at-all-big-shows, Mario Testino.

The grungy-looking models we have seen before on Ghesquiere's Vuitton catwalk were still there, but the clothes were less edgy, more funky and very definitely young money. The all-important handbags were stronger than they have been in years and were very, very wantable. Ghesquiere is fast proving he has the right stuff to make the brand as hot as it was in the early years of Marc Jacobs' stewardship.

Just as I had Sarah Burton written off as the designer to continue steering Alexander McQueen, she delivers an exquisite collection that finally feels like something new is going on.

Sheer, lace, ruffles and devore fabrics made for a sexy, feminine, largely dress, collection.

Hermes, under French designer Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski, was a master class in how striking simplicity and confident strokes make for bold and brilliant direction. One of my faves.

Another new fave, Chinese designer, Yiqing Yin, presented an apparently simply constructed collection, that was exquisite, luxurious, contemporary.

Fresh from showing his collection in London two weeks ago, David Koma delivered another strong collection for Mugler.

Celine, the design-discerning woman's favourite label, is - I think - soon going to catch the Marni faithful as the collection is full of play, unusual constructs and humour. Under Phoebe Philo, Celine becomes ever more confident, experimental and stunning. For next season it is positively joyful in its expression.

Paris fashion week not only signaled the end of the international catwalk season, it signalled that there is, finally, new energy in their old fashion houses again. It is great to see.

Sunday Independent