Wednesday 25 April 2018

Ruth Griffin: Runways go nude, and you can too!

How to master the natural nude lipstick craze of London Fashion Week

A model walks the runway at the Erdem show during London Fashion Week Spring/Summer collections 2017
A model walks the runway at the Erdem show during London Fashion Week Spring/Summer collections 2017
Charlotte Tilbury Matte in Walk of Shame
Inglot Matte Lipstick in 404
Laura Mercier's Candleglow Soft luminous Foundation
Maybelline's Fit Me Foundation
NARS Morocco Semi Matte Lipstick
Yomiko Chen
Autograph Moisture Colour Lipstick in Jacquard
Vivien Pomeroy, freelance make up artist. Photo: Tony Gavin

As the curtain closed on London Fashion Week SS17, a humble lipstick emerged as the star of the show. A nude NARS lipstick - Kiss Me Stupid - was chosen by Erdem and JW Anderson as their make-up focal point. Erdem's make-up artist Val Garland (Instagram @thevalgarland), who used it on models' lips, cheeks and eyes for an overall tonal polish (pictured right) said: "This is the perfect natural nude shade for everyone."

Since it's nearly impossible to find a product that suits all skin tones and hair colours, I decided to do some beauty sleuthing and check out whether the fuss about this product is warranted. The result? This is truly a gem of a lippy; a neutral lip that doesn't make you look washed out and enough of a colour to leave the rest of your make-up simple. It's not available in Ireland until February, however, so I've chosen some top alternatives (see right) to see you through 'til then.

Treat vs cheat

Laura Mercier's Candleglow Soft Luminous Foundation

Laura Mercier's Candleglow Soft luminous Foundation


Comes in eight shades that make models' skin glowy and catwalk-ready. Department stores nationwide or buy from Brown Thomas here.

Maybelline's Fit Me Foundation

Maybelline's Fit Me Foundation


This oil- and wax-free skin perfector packs a beautifying punch (but only available in six shades.) Pharmacies nationwide or buy from Boots here.

4 of the best neutral lipsticks

We can't get our mitts on NARS Kiss Me Stupid until February, so here are four of the best alternatives that you can wear right now

Natural beauty

NARS Morocco Semi Matte Lipstick

These colours are very similar to the fashion week's favourite lip colour but the texture is much shinier, so they need blotting on tissue paper to get the desired natural finish of the NARS option. Autograph Moisture Colour Lipstick in Jacquard or Nude Pink, €13.50, Marks & Spencer nationwide or online here.

Trusty rusty

NARS Morocco Semi Matte Lipstick

This is such a fantastic colour and finish - it's matte but not chalky. The natural, nude slightly rust colour is just gorgeous. So many people have asked me what lipstick I'm wearing since I got this little beaut. Especially gorgeous on blondes. NARS Morocco Semi Matte Lipstick, €26, Brown Thomas.

Getting lippy

Inglot Matte Lipstick in 404

These two colour options from Inglot are good alternatives, but definitely need a dab of lip balm over the top to freshen the texture. Inglot Matte Lipstick in 404 or 163, €13.50, or stores nationwide.

Lip service

Charlotte Tilbury Matte in Walk of Shame

These two options from Charlotte Tilbury are really matte; I would blend some Vaseline over the top to soften the look. Charlotte Tilbury Matte in Very Victoria or Walk of Shame, €30, Brown Thomas, BT2 nationwide.


Backstage beauty with model Yomiko Chen

Model, restaurant owner, and new mum Yomiko ( shares her favourite beauty goodies to help us emulate this catwalk queen's flawless skin.

What are your top five beauty products?

1 La Prairie Skin Caviar Luxe Eye (€292) from Brown Thomas and Day Cream (€386) from Brown Thomas.

1 La Prairie Anti-Ageing Rapid Response Booster (€258) from Brown Thomas.

2 Chanel UV Essential Multi-Protection Fluid (€53).

3 Espa Overnight Hydration Therapy (€42), from Espa at the Merrion Hotel.

4 Vaseline from €2.99. Buy from Boots here.

5 BIODERMA Micellar Water (€11.50) as my make-up remover.

What is your daily beauty routine?

Cleansing, booster, eye cream, day cream and SPF. At night, I do the same routine again, just replacing my moisturiser with a night cream. I also use an overnight mask twice a week.

What are your favourite upcoming hair and make-up trends

Heavy fringe and a dark smoky eye - this is also my favourite night-time look.

What is the biggest beauty myth?

That homemade masks (ie using milk or fruits) are effective, when actually this is a big beauty no, no for people with sensitive skin.

What is the biggest mistake women make with their grooming?

Bad fake tan - you can see the uneven tone, tan lines, or just the wrong orange colour.

What is your best beauty trick of the trade?

Vaseline - you can use it as a lip balm, for taking eye make-up off, or even as make-up itself. Put it on your cheeks or eyelids, it gives you that natural, glowing look. Also, it is the best eye cream ever.


iw Vivien Pomeroy.jpg
Vivien Pomeroy, freelance make up artist. Photo: Tony Gavin

Freelance make-up artist Vivien Pomeroy has worked backstage at hundreds of fashion shows, and with celebs including Rihanna, Cheryl Cole and Angelica Heuston.

What products suit most women?

Armani Luminous Silk Foundation (€45) and Make Up Forever Ultra HD Foundation (€43) - both are not too oily or too dry, and suit most women regardless of age and skin type. Also, NARS Blush in Orgasm and South Beach (€30) and MAC lipstick in Brave (€20).

What advice would you give women when they're choosing a lip colour?

Try the colour on your lips first and you'll be amazed at how it brightens your complexion. If you're afraid of a deeper colour, try a tinted lip balm in the same tones instead.

What are your top tips for skincare?

I follow Eve Lom's skincare advice and at night, after I take off my make-up, I only use eye cream. All day you have layers of product on your skin, so Eve's way of thinking is to allow your skin to breathe throughout the night.

What is the biggest beauty myth?

In my opinion, this myth was invented by the big cosmetic houses - that you have to use all the same products from the same brand for best results. I would use different products from multiple brands.

What are the most common mistakes women make with their make-up?

Not cleaning their brushes. I would recommend cleaning your brushes once a week if you are wearing make-up every day. If your brushes are matted with dirt, your make-up won't be applied smoothly.

For fashion shows, how do you pick a look that will suit all the models?

When working on a show there can be anything from six to 20 models, so there will always be a big variety of skin tones and hair colour. Normally, a strong lip or a winged black liner with beautiful highlighter looks and photographs great. The designer or director of a show will give guidance.

Your favourite tool of the trade?

A nice rounded, angled blusher brush for perfect application. Also, blotting paper - if you don't want to over-powder your face, this will absorb the oil and shine without caking your make-up.

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