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Chefs boil over as mag slams city's food

LEADING restaurants in Dublin have hit back at an article by 'Forbes' magazine which stated that it is difficult to find top-notch food in the capital.

Celebrity chef Clodagh McKenna was over the moon yesterday when her new eatery in Blackrock was singled out for praise in a feature by the world-famous magazine.

However, the feature, by restaurant reviewer Larry Olmsted, criticised the standard of Dublin restaurants and said that it did not compare to culinary levels in the rest of Europe.

"If you go to Dublin, which sadly is not one of Europe's great food cities, you would normally be hard pressed to eat a standout meal, so do yourself a favor and head to Clodagh's Kitchen," read the feature.


"That's their opinion, but obviously I don't agree," said Derry Clarke, who owns Michelin-star restaurant L'Ecrivian in the city centre.

"Any country you go to, you will get good food and bad food so it is a very general statement to make.

"You find better restaurants in Dublin than you would around the world and the food prices are a lot cheaper than I have ever seen in Rome or Paris," added Mr Clarke, who has been in the restaurant business for more than 22 years.

Antoin Dempsey, owner of Dublin Wine Rooms in the IFSC, said that the quality of food in Dublin restaurants has vastly improved in recent years.

"I think the standard has never been as strong and there's no question that the value and quality of our food has never been as good," said Mr Dempsey.

"They are not looking very far if they think that," a spokesperson for award-winning Thai restaurant Saba told the Herald.