Restaurant review: 'A slice of country in the city - served up with grá on a hidden farm'
Unless you live in the area, you probably don't know that there's an urban farm right in the middle of Glasnevin. The mention of it is intriguing,...
Unless you live in the area, you probably don't know that there's an urban farm right in the middle of Glasnevin. The mention of it is intriguing,...
It's fascinating to compare the photos of 36 Parkmore Drive when it was last on the market with the house it is now - a textbook example of the potential of a modest 1930s semi-detached house.
It's tough out there in the market for trader-up homes in the Dublin suburbs, as any family on the hunt for a larger house to accommodate a growing brood will tell you. Caught between the need for more space and the reluctance to give up on the convenience of an urban location, many would-...
Chances are that, even if you are a committed meat- and fish-eater, you have vegans and...
In preparation for my lunch at Ka Shing, I did some homework. The Dim Sum Field Guide by Carolyn Phillips (published by Ten Speed Press) is a...
When Sarah Kinsella bought her home, 11 St Luke's Crescent, in 2007, the former corporation house had not been touched in many years. No 11 was crying out for a top to bottom renovation, but Sarah decided to do more than refurbish and took what had been a small three-bed, two-reception, one-bathroom house and turned it into a stylish modern place to live.
A friend sent me a link to an article that appeared in an American newspaper. The writer was a jaded restaurant critic who had decided to hang up his eating boots, bored by the same-old, same-old offering he encountered wherever he went. Not that anybody lucky enough to have a job like mine should complain, but the article struck a chord. The more restaurants that I eat in, the less I...
When the current owner of The Gables left Limerick for the US in the mid-1950s, she can have had no idea of the life that awaited her on the other side of the Atlantic.
'The amazing thing about where we live is that, although it's right in the city centre, it's really quiet. At night you could hear a pin drop. We think that it's the best place to live in the whole of Dublin."
The most hotly anticipated Dublin restaurant opening last year was Uno Mas, which got the kitchen in and the builders out in time for the run-up to Christmas, so that the city could fall over itself trying to nab a table.
In 2004, the fields of Drummond House, the Collier family's 100-acre farm in Baltray, Co Louth, an hour north of Dublin, were used as car parks...
Jason O'Callaghan bought his home at 90 South Lotts Road back in December 2006, paying in the region of €700,000 for the terraced house. Although it...
It's not easy to please all of the people, all of the time, but a new-ish café on a stretch of James' Street - a food wasteland for too long - seems to be doing just that.
In 2004, the fields of Drummond House, the Collier family's 100-acre farm in Baltray, Co Louth, an hour north of Dublin, were used as car parks for the Irish Open, and as a landing pad for...
Recent changes in the rules pertaining to Airbnb rentals in Dublin are having a knock-on effect in terms of an influx of properties on to the market. Landlords who have been happily reaping the...
In the early 19th Century, taxes in Ireland were based on property, with the methods of calculation varying from county to county. The British government wanted to regularise and consolidate the system, and appointed Richard Griffith, the director of the Valuation Office in Dublin, to carry out a land survey. Griffith was asked to mark the boundaries of every county, townland and parish in preparation for the first Ordnance Survey.
A tree-lined avenue leads from the country road running down from Prumplestown Cross past an attractive gate lodge right up to the front door of Prumplestown House, a truly beautiful country home dating from the mid-19th Century.
Chef Daniel Skukalek is the owner, with his partner, Lorna Halligan, of the Nine Arches restaurant in Ballymahon.
A vigorous wisteria in full bloom climbs up the front façade of Lauriston, Trevor and Marian McVeagh's gorgeous Ranelagh home, a turreted semi-detached house on this sleepy residential street in the heart of Ranelagh's lawyer/banker/ consultant land. The climber ends up wrapped around the first-floor verandah-style balcony off the main bedroom, the spot to which Marian says she has retreated over the years whenever she has felt in need of some peace and quiet.
"Once we'd seen the views we were sold on the house," says one of the vendors of Seawood, who grew up in Howth. "We almost didn't need to see the house itself."
Until the early 2000s, Lisnabin Castle, built in 1824 in the Victorian Gothic style, was home to six generations of a Westmeath cattle-farming family. When the last owners retired, they sold the estate on 400 acres, and retained 60 acres on which they built The Bawn as their retirement home.
Up Kilgarron Hill, a few hundred metres from the copper-domed clock tower at the centre of Enniskerry, a turn to the right leads to Kilgarron House. You pass several houses and the stump of a once-majestic sequoia, Sequoiadendron giganteum, one of a hundred such trees said to have been given by a grateful Duke of Wellington to Lord Powerscourt to thank him for his help in securing...
Whatever your reasons for visiting New York, you should make the most of the incredible opportunities for eating dishes from its diverse range of cuisines.
'It's the biggest innovation in chocolate in 80 years," says Mary Healy of The Chocolate Garden of Ireland. "We are only getting to understand it and learning how to work with it."
How do you like your eggs in the morning? We went in search of the best brunches in Ireland, seeking out the cafés and restaurants that put extra thought into the sourcing of their key ingredients and have come up with imaginative ways of serving eggs that delight their customers.
'They are going to say that you're in the pocket of Big Meat," says my son as we drive home from Beast after our depressing vegan meal, concerned that I might be about to come in for some online flack when this review appears.
Margaret Nelson, group station director of music stations Q102 and FM 104, has very clear memories of the summer of 2001, when the holiday house that she and her husband, Joe Nally, built at Rath Hill near Baltimore was newly completed.
I see that Gordon Ramsay is in trouble again, not for shouting or general obnoxiousness this time (quelle surprise), but for opening an 'authentic' Asian restaurant in London. Wouldn't you have thought that he would know (or been advised - did he not hear about Jamie Oliver and the jerk chicken?) that it's not acceptable to purport to be authentic when one is plundering a cuisine not...
Every food lover worth his or her salt has a bucket list. Obvious inclusions might be caviar and lobster, native oysters and white summer truffles. The first asparagus of the season and wild salmon from a particular river. Delve deeper and you'll find goose barnacles and gulls' eggs, sea urchin, abalone and snipe. A particularly decadent list might include ortolan; a reckless one, puffer fish.
Back in 1963, the parents of one of the owners of Raheen bought a farm known as Raheen House, and subsequently gave a site on the land to each of their children.
'The best thing about living here," says Cathy McKenna, "is that life is almost completely pedestrian! We walk absolutely everywhere - the school run is three minutes on foot, we walk to the shops, the park, and in to town for work. We only have one car and we hardly use it. It's actually the thing that most bothers me about moving further out of town to get more space, that we won't be...
Many years ago, I took a cookery course with Paolo Tullio in the kitchen of his home in Annamoe, Co Wicklow. For a couple of months, I drove down there once a week and, in the company of half a dozen other women, one of whom went on to become a close friend, learned how to make fresh pasta, prosciutto, pizza and a selection of classic Italian dishes. I still have the sheaf of recipes that Paolo handed out, but I must confess that I never did get into the routine of making pasta from scratch. Truth be told there was a lot of chatting and story-telling, followed by a good lunch and...
The highlight of the social calendar in Ahakista is the table quiz that takes place each year in a marquee in the car park of Arundel's pub and restaurant over the August Bank Holiday weekend.
In Japan, 'izakaya' is the word used to describe a bar that serves a range of drinking snacks, but although Sisu Izakaya in Dublin city centre, which opened last year, has the look of downtown Tokyo about it, the food offering is a little more comprehensive than that.
An elderly dachshund has lived at No 25 Woodbine Road for the whole of his life, and it's easy to see why he's as contented as he is - spending his days snoozing in his bed by the Aga, mooching around the ground floor of the house and heading off into the very large garden for adventures whenever the fancy takes him.
Back in 2009, Oliveto started out as a pizza restaurant by the seafront in Dún Laoghaire. It looked as if a lot of money had been ploughed into the venture - a snazzy pizza oven and a slick interior fit-out - but the timing was off. Oliveto re-emerged after a couple of years at what was once the Kingston Hotel, now renamed Haddington House. This used to be rather down at heel, but is now well on...
The current owners of 36 Albany Road in Ranelagh bought their home in 1980, and undertook a major renovation prior to their wedding the following year. But they had barely moved in and had a chance to enjoy their new home before work took them abroad.
Early on a Wednesday evening, there's a 45-minute wait for a table at Pi Pizza, which doesn't take bookings. The queue is the result of a heated debate that happened online last summer about where the best pizza in Dublin was to be found. Everyone, it seemed, had an opinion. Some argued for Sano, others for Forno 500. Osteria Lucio and Da Mimmo came in for honourable mentions.
'There's not a whole lot of mystery to selling a house," says Aine McMahon, "so long as you have a good solicitor by your side."
I have no excuse for taking 25 years to visit Chameleon in Temple Bar, but I finally made it last week and am kicking myself for not getting it together before now. Mea culpa, mea maxima culpa.
I was living nearby and used to pass the house all the time," says the current owner of Bushfield House, a charming period property located in the centre of the seaside town. "It looked as if it needed a bit of love."
Jonathan Gold, the much-loved restaurant critic of the LA Times who died last year, was the first person who came to mind after my visit to Bowls by Kwanghi Chan last week. Gold was the first restaurant critic to win a Pulitzer; his column Counter Intelligence focused on "hole-in-the-wall joints, street food, mom-and-pop shops and ethnic restaurants" and he was famous for visiting places as...
February 14 is perhaps a night best avoided in restaurants, as there can be little more dispiriting than row upon row of two-tops adorned with single red roses, the air heavy with the weight of expectations un-met. But while forced romance can leave you feeling anything but loved-up, there are restaurants all over the country that just can't help being romantic, whatever the date. Here...
How much do you like your golf? Would you orient your life around it?
My head was reeling before I even made it through the doors of Dylan McGrath's new Shelbourne Social, thanks to the restaurant's migraine-inducing website, all pulsing graphics and non sequitur images, including one of Tupac. For why? All customers need to know is the location, how to book and something about the food and wine. Anything else is annoying and, in the case of Shelbourne...
Addresses don't come much better than Dromoland Castle, Co Clare, one of Ireland's most luxurious five-star hotels and perennially popular with visitors from all over the world.
Loyd Grossman Tikka Masala, 350g, €2.85
Coffee culture has well and truly taken hold in Ireland over the past decade. But with the price of a flat white now firmly established at over €3, thanks in part to the recent VAT increase, it matters more than ever whether it's any good or not. Too often what should be a small occasion of joy turns out to be a bitter disappointment.
A chilly Saturday night in the middle of dry January and we are so desperate to get out of the house and have a glass of wine that my stooge phones Variety Jones to see if it's possible to advance the time of the booking that he made last month. Horror of horrors, they have no record of the reservation but say that they'll seat us at the bar whenever it suits us to show up.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, fake 'native' villages - often African but also sometimes Far Eastern - were hugely popular attractions throughout Europe and America at great exhibitions or fairs.
Regular readers will know that it's the policy of this review not to visit new restaurants immediately after they open. The thrill of the new may be crack for professional journalists, and for eager beaver punters, yet the review that comes after a new restaurant has had a chance to bed down and iron out any teething problems is likely to be more measured, and perhaps fairer to both...
Linda McCartney's Red Onion & Rosemary Sausages (6), 300g, €1.50
It's traditional for the first restaurant review of January to be of the healthy, abstemious kind of establishment that we all associate with post-Christmas self-loathing and recrimination. I'm sure that you're familiar with the type of place that I have in mind. Perhaps you too find it hard to get excited by the prospect.
Most 'cookbooks' written by 26-year-olds are not like Ella Risbridger's Midnight Chicken. But then most 26-year-olds are not like Ella Risbridger, who says that she was "born very old". Ella has also had considerably more life experience than most of her contemporaries. The title recipe, for instance (which is absolutely delicious and I recommend highly), came about after Ella spent hours lying...
What's the best bean salad available to buy in supermarkets right now?
Towards the end of last year, there was a flurry of new openings in Dublin - so many that it was hard to keep up. Gertrude on Pearse Street is the first restaurant proper from the 3Fe team, and head chef Holly Dalton's menu looks both interesting and well priced. I like the sound of the bacon and cabbage dumplings in particular.
What's healthy food these days? It's not detox juice regimens, that's for sure, and neither is it extreme diets. With so much contradictory advice around, and fads coming and going, we're focusing on food experiences that celebrate whole, natural foods and the very best of Irish ingredients.
While there are those whose idea of a perfect New Year's Eve is to hide under the duvet until it's all over, it's also a night on which many of us like to get together with friends and family. It used to be that New Year's Eve food was all about canapés and champagne, but there are other ways to celebrate.
The people and places who made a real impact on Irish food in 2018.
Spare a thought for the chefs and cooks of the nation, who spend the month of December working their socks off so that the rest of us can enjoy ourselves.
What do foodies want for Christmas? Katy McGuinness has the answers.
Jimmy Wiley's new restaurant in Phibsborough is named after his aunt. I'm hoping that perhaps the American chef is related to Loretta Lynn, the Kentucky-born country music singer-songwriter whose autobiography, Coal Miner's Daughter, was made into the film starring Sissy Spacek. That Loretta is known for an oeuvre that includes songs such as Don't Come Home A Drinking (With Lovin' On...
Avoca 5 inch Iced Christmas Cake, €34.95
"It simply wouldn't be Christmas without…" this list!
A couple of months back, my editor suggested that this week I review somewhere in Dublin that would make a good pit stop for anyone in need of sustenance during a bout of Christmas shopping.
Flamboyant but flawed, St Leonards is a cool new London haunt to try if you’re in the city for Christmas shopping.
Christmas is the one time of year that even those of us without a modicum of skill in the baking department whip out the aprons and wooden spoons and try our hand at a Christmas cake or pudding.
For most families, the next few weeks will be the busiest shopping period of the year, with preparations underway for the annual festive feast. With so much choice out there, it can be really hard to know what the best food and drink options are. So taking price and quality into consideration, I've rounded up my festive favourites, in the hope of making your life that bit easier in the weeks ahead. Here they are:
Without wishing to sound like a resigning Tory cabinet member, it is with a heavy heart that I bring you this review of Del-Fino. I was looking forward to my visit, yet when I ate there a month or so after it opened I found a venture that was barely holding it together, in terms of either food or service.
What's the best mincemeat to buy this Christmas, and do they contain palm oil? Katy McGuinness finds out:
We are at Sheen Falls in Kenmare for a winter Wine Academy weekend led by the hotel's Quentin Caraux and Anthony Tindal of Tindal Wines. The weather is miserable, as wet as can be, the Sheen river in full spate. It's so bad - blissfully bad - that really it would be reckless to spend any time outside in the elements, and so we resign ourselves to lounging around by log fires. We make a...
Back in 2010, interior designer Suzie McAdam and her husband purchased 12a Ardagh Avenue in Blackrock.
The Huguenot town of Portarlington lies on a bend of the River Barrow, and its satellite village of Killenard grew up close to the tannery that gave the town its name - Cúil an tSúdaire - which means 'nook of the tanner' in Irish.
A linden is an older name for a lime fruit and it pops up here and there in street names in parts of south Dublin.
I know that sometimes I'm in danger of sounding like a broken record, whinging on about the lack of provenance information on the menus of some of the restaurants that I visit. I'm aware that it can be perceived as elitist, this middle-class food writer tendency to parse over where our food comes from, and how it is processed, when food poverty is a real and current phenomenon in Ireland. So I stop mentioning it for a few weeks, so as not to bore you all rigid.
A stellar tasting menu at Ireland’s first kaiseki restaurant.
Breda McEnaney bought her townhouse at South Dock Place in Ringsend back in 2004, when she was working in Herbert Place, a short walk away.
I remember being underwhelmed the first time I arrived to eat at Eastern Seaboard a few years ago and discovering that it was located in a strip mall of shops on the outskirts of town - I'd been expecting something more scenic, and definitely something by the sea. Last week, my lunch guest had the same reaction when we pulled up outside, but I doubt that the owners, Jeni Glasgow and...
Back in 1989, Dympna Dunworth and her husband, Noel Dean, bought a mobile home in Brittas Bay, with the intention of spending weekends there during the summer, commuting up and down from their home on Frankfort Avenue in Rathgar. A few years passed, and the couple realised they were spending six months of the year in their caravan.
On a bright, sunny day in early autumn, Dungarvan, Co Waterford, is looking its best, as are Paul and Máire Flynn, the couple behind The Tannery, the town's destination restaurant.
If there's a better example of how life in Ireland has changed than the tableau vivant in Ananda on a Sunday evening - families getting together over food that couldn't be further from a Mammy roast - then I can't think what it might be.
The vendors of 11d Grosvenor Lane in Rathmines are Italian nationals who have recently returned home to Italy after a spell in Ireland. It’s easy to see why the smart architect-designed contemporary style mews property with huge windows has appealed to those who hail from a sunnier clime.
West Cork was in the news recently when two out of the three new Michelin stars awarded to Ireland for 2019 went to Mews in Baltimore and The Chestnut in Ballydehob, with the third going to Takashi Miyazaki's ichigo ichie in Cork City. It was an affirmation of what food folk have known for years - that Co Cork is the true food capital of Ireland.
Tucked away at the back of the Super Asia Foods mini-market on Capel Street is the Brothers Dosirak, a funny little canteen that I've been meaning to go back and investigate ever since I happened upon it one day when on the hunt for some elusive ingredient.
'Over the past few years," says my lunch date, "I've eaten many, many versions of avo toast, and I can definitively say that this is not one of the better ones."
Open House Dublin 2018 - Ireland's largest public festival of architecture - famously offers an opportunity to all of us just once a year to visit more than 100 buildings, many of them not usually open to the public. The visit trail coincides with a full programme of events and all tours and openings are free to attend, although donations to charity partner, the Peter McVerry Trust for...
Rathmichael in south Co Dublin is one of those places which attracts people who need, for work or other reasons, to live close to the capital but who would really prefer to be in the countryside.
Mickael Viljanen’s exquisite offerings spark more Michelin speculation.
The Daintree Building, designed by Solearth Architects and completed in 2005, is one of Dublin's sustainable gems, tucked away on a tight urban site on Pleasant's Place off Camden Street. Upstairs there are apartments and offices, while a bookshop now occupies the Camden Street retail space once home to the Daintree paper workshop; you can walk through here to the Cake Café, or else access it from Pleasant's Place.
Birds Eye Fish Fingers (14), 350g, €5.30
'It was the beautiful south-facing aspect that sold us," say the current owners of The Mill House in Ballyshannon near Kilcullen, describing the moment 18 years ago when they first set eyes on what would become their new home. "We were city people who just fell in love with the place. The slightly raised position provides such lovely views over the fields that surround the house and the hills in the distance. And it's extremely private. When you are here, it is hard to believe that you are deep in the countryside, yet at the same time so close to Dublin."
You know the way that it's no longer five, but 10 portions of fruit and vegetables that we're supposed to be eating each day? And how that can be hard to achieve? And you know also the way that we are being encouraged to consume more fermented foods, to promote the good bacteria in our guts, but that the prospect of morning kefir isn't necessarily something that appeals to everyone?
Donal Skehan may not look like anyone's idea of a home economics teacher, but his new book, Meals in Minutes, is full of the kind of sage, practical advice about meal planning, smart shopping and store-cupboard ingredients that many of us vaguely remember from school, but have ditched along the way, because it doesn't quite chime with the idea that we think of ourselves as spontaneous,...
'This AGA," says Claire Boland, indicating the four-oven kerosene-fired range that has been lit in the past week, as the chill of autumn started to make its presence felt, "is renowned in the AGA world. I barely get it serviced once a year and yet it always starts first time. I love it and so does the service engineer!"
Anyone familiar with the original incarnation of The Ivy in London may find it hard to reconcile their memories with the new Dublin version. West Street was all dark wood panelling and subtle stained glass; on Dawson Street, it's bling-tastic, Wetherspoons on steroids.
This year's Enniskerry Festival gets into full swing next weekend, and features a concert on Friday evening (7th) by that favourite from the 1970s/80s, rock group Bagatelle, responsible for the perennial sunny weather tune, Summer in Dublin, with its homage to the soon-to-vanish 46a bus route.
Even though we can eat farmed oysters all year round, September always feels like the start of the oyster season, and next month oyster lovers can look forward to three festivals dedicated to the bivalve.
Jonathan Gold, the Pulitzer- winning restaurant critic for the LA Times, who died last month, was of the opinion that a simple taco offers "more deliciousness per square inch ... per second ... than almost anything in the world".
'I love glass boxes," says the current owner of Innisfree, who was born and raised in Ballycotton, "so, when I found the site, I knew that I wanted to build a house that was all steel, glass and concrete. It's got a steel frame, polished concrete floors, and lots of glass."
That one bricked up window in the upper front corner of No 10 Prince Edward Terrace Lower dates from the time of the dreaded Window Tax. Until the 1850s, houses with seven to nine windows had to pay one rate of tax, while those with more than nine paid an even higher levy. The tax, which was finally repealed in 1851, gave rise to the phrase 'daylight robbery' and led to partial blinding...
In Myrtleville, Co Cork, Mark Riordan has come up with a novel way of operating the beehives that he keeps on his family farm.
The UK Guild of Fine Foods has announce its 2018 Great Taste Award winners, with a remarkable 392 based in Ireland. A total of 12,634 products were judged this year winners get to display the distinctive Great Taste Award on their packaging, with either one, two or three stars awarded.
In the wake of Anthony Bourdain's death, there has been a lot of talk about mental health and wellness in the restaurant business. Bourdain was such a role model for many chefs - and the reason they got into the profession in the first place - that it was bound to have a big impact.
Robbie Krawcyzk (pictured) is the chef behind one of 2018's most talked-about restaurant openings: Chestnut in Ballydehob. Robbie grew up in West Cork, so there's something of a return of the prodigal to his new venture.
'That sounds like one of those ideas that a bunch of us would come up with at five o'clock in the morning after a skinful of beers ... and we'd all think that it was brilliant," says my chef friend, when I tell him about the coddle pizza that we've eaten for brunch earlier that day at The Baths in Clontarf.
Perhaps you first ate Katie Sanderson's food at one of the plant-based, raw-food Living Dinners that began in 2012, and took place in venues as diverse as a Wicklow forest and a crumbling Georgian mansion in Henrietta Street.
Balmy. Not the first word that usually springs to mind to describe a summer's evening in Dublin, but this year has been different. At home, we are eating in the garden more often than I ever remember doing in the past, experimenting with the Aldi pizza oven that I bought (optimistically) back in May. It has turned out to be brilliant; our pizzas thin, crisp and deliciously charred.
Robin Gill (pictured) launched his new book, Larder (Absolute Press, £26) with Sunday lunch at Ross Lewis's Chapter One a couple of weeks ago.
It was Hippocrates who first used the word 'thalassotherapy' to describe the healing effects of salt water, which is thought to improve the function of the immune and circulatory systems, the skin and general well-being.
If you dream of giving it all up and running away to the Ballymaloe Cookery School at Shanagarry to enrol in the famous 12-week Certificate Course, but you know in your heart of hearts that you are never going to able to leave your life for that length of time, then consider Ballymaloe's new five-week summer course, which runs from July 30 until August 31.
'Is it over yet?" Apparently not, there's another week to go before the footie ends, so there's still time to nip down to Fowl Play at the back of the Square Ball pub (around the corner from Holles Street hospital) and have a match-watching-in-the-pub experience that's a little different from the norm. By the looks of things, the Square Ball is a proper sports pub, so if football isn't your thing...
Grand Canal Dock is looking pretty gorgeous these sunny days, with not a table to be had outside any of its cafes. The water is thronged with kayakers and youngsters in wetsuits simply jumping in for the craic. The distinctive yellow Viking Splash Tours - a tour of Dublin on land and water in a Second World War amphibious vehicle, puts in an appearance many times each day; the passengers...