You will never forget the first time you head north out of Rathmullan. Lough Swilly is on your right; Knockalla mountain on your left. As you wind along, gently twisting and climbing, there comes that moment, after you round one particular bend, when the beach appears below, and you can scarcely believe your eyes. The sight is so extraordinary, there's a place to pull in. You cannot believe this is Ireland. Then, every time you make this journey, you are filled with anticipation, waiting for that moment when you first see the golden sands.