Sunday 17 December 2017

The curious gincident of the girls in the garden

Gin is a bigger summer hit than Leo or fidget spinners, writes Donal Lynch - it's no longer just mother's ruin

JUST THE TONIC: Emma Cooper and Amy Stafford sample a quick gin at the Taste of Dublin festival at the Iveagh Gardens this weekend. Photo: Fergal Phillips
JUST THE TONIC: Emma Cooper and Amy Stafford sample a quick gin at the Taste of Dublin festival at the Iveagh Gardens this weekend. Photo: Fergal Phillips
Donal Lynch

Donal Lynch

Obviously we are all very serious about the national conversation around drink. We have taken on board the stern lectures we get about side-effects like 'wine face' and 'early death'. We would never dream of drink-driving. A full half of us are reported to be determined to cut down. We let them euthanise Arthur's Day and we didn't even flinch. Slowly we are struggling toward what once seemed impossible: proper European moderation.

But on the other hand: gin. It's the new middle-class thing to get pissed on. No other drink has enjoyed such a resurgence in recent years. It has been the breakout star of the summer so far, bigger than Leo or fidget spinners even.

The number of cases produced by the industry here has almost doubled in the last five years and the online market is now worth €50m - an all-time high. Stands offering 'ginspiration' have so dominated A Taste of Dublin over the last few days that you might have sworn it was a food group all by itself.

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