Tuesday 13 November 2018

Restaurant review with Paulo Tullio: The Full Monty

Brabazon Restaraunt, Tankardstown House, Rathkenny, Slane, Co Meath


Paolo Tullio

It was the night after that day of heavy rain in late November. You may remember much of the island was beset by cloudbursts, followed by blocked drains and swollen rivers breaking their banks. I'd arranged to go to Tankardstown House with Gerard Carthy the previous week, but he couldn't make it. So this was our second attempt and, despite dire warnings on the radio about not driving unless you really had to, we set off for Slane.

All went really well until we got to the end of the M2 and the N2 began. There were parts of the road that were more like lakes, but intrepid reviewers that we are, we persisted. Once arrived in Slane, we could see the river almost at the top of the bridge, not an arch in sight.

From Slane to Tankardstown, the journey was without problems - whatever water had been on the road was gone and we arrived in Tankardstown in a gentle drizzle. The approach is worth describing, because you drive around a fair piece of perimeter before you hit the restaurant entrance. The most striking feature is the boundary wall, which has been rebuilt by a skilful stonemason. There must be a few miles of it, and I thought, if someone is prepared to do that much work on a boundary wall, they've certainly done plenty on the house and outhouses.

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