Tuesday 23 April 2019

24 hours in Palermo: A perfect day in Buenos Aires

Adventures in Argentina

The tree lined streets and cafes of Palermo in Buenos Aires
The tree lined streets and cafes of Palermo in Buenos Aires
Home, the boutique hotel in Buenos Aires
Brunch at Bartola café
Colorful street art in Palermo district

Yvonne Gordon

Yvonne Gordon explores the bohemian district of Palermo, one of Buenos Aires' hottest 'hoods...

10am: Explore Palermo Viejo

Palermo Viejo is divided into Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho. Get your bearings on the wide tree-lined boulevards of Palermo Soho, home to designers, artists and bookshops, by strolling along Jorge Luis Borges or Gurruchaga. At weekends, there's an open-air arts and crafts market at Plaza Serrano (also known as Plaza Cortázar) which sells everything from fashion and accessories to art. This lively area is also lined with bars and restaurants.

How: Plaza Serrano market, Saturdays and Sundays, 12pm to 6pm

12pm: Enjoy Brunch

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Brunch at Bartola café

On a sunny day, take a street-side table at a café like Bartola (above) on the intersection of Gurruchaga and Costa Rica, and watch the world go by over brunch or a café cortado - you'll probably spot one of Buenos Aires's famous dog walkers, who exercise up to 14 pooches at a time around the area's parks and green spots. Finish off with a dulce de leche ice-cream from Freddo in Calle Armenia.

How: bartolaba.com.ar; freddo.com

5pm: Tour Palermo's street art

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Colorful street art in Palermo district

Street art and graffiti are a colourful feature in Buenos Aires, especially in the creative Palermo area - the city's largest neighbourhood. Take a tour of the district's street art with Graffiti Mundo (it started the world's first street art tours back in 2008) to understand how the art and graffiti works with the city's political and social scene, and how collectives of artists gather to make statements and put colour on the streets.

How: Graffiti Mundo walking tours take place in Palermo Soho on Sundays at 3.30pm; graffitimundo.com; $18/€17pp.

8pm: Check into Home

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Home, the boutique hotel in Buenos Aires

Not only will this small boutique hotel feel like a home from home with its cosy interior, beautiful design and house cat, but there's a lovely little pool in the lush rear garden. Irish visitors get a warm welcome as manager and Buenos Aires native Patricia O'Shea's grandfather was from Dingle, Co Kerry.

How: homebuenosaires.com; doubles from €127. See also turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar/en & argentina.travel/en.

Do it

Air France (airfrance.ie) and KLM (klm.com) fly to Buenos Aires. SayHueque.com has a 4-day tour from $499/€470.

Read more:

At home in Argentina: A brilliant bucket list trip for 2016  Southern Star: Chile

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