Tuesday 24 October 2017

West Waterford gets gourmet thumbs-up from New York Times

Food & Travel

Local chefs, including Eunice Power and Paul Flynn (far right) photographed at the launch of a recent Waterford Festival of Food. Photo: Dylan Vaughan
Local chefs, including Eunice Power and Paul Flynn (far right) photographed at the launch of a recent Waterford Festival of Food. Photo: Dylan Vaughan
Smoked salmon at the Cliff House, Ardmore.
Cliff House Hotel Waterford
Paul Flynn of The Tannery, Dungarvan
Pictured at Mahon Falls in the Comeraghs mountains are: Lauren Moran (4), Lisa Kavanagh and Isabel Hayden (4). Picture: Patrick Browne
Dungarvan is the place to be for Waterford's Festival of Food.
Pól Ó Conghaile

Pól Ó Conghaile

The New York Times’ travel section has been sampling the gastronomic wonders of the southeast, and it likes what it tastes.

West Waterford is “fast becoming known for its epicurean culture.”

That’s the latest assessment from the fabled publication, which describes the area as favoured for its “idyllic beaches, picturesque villages and sprawling green fields blanketed with sheep” today. 

The New York Times, with a circulation of some 1.8 million, has been showering praise on Ireland of late – with no fewer than three travel features celebrating various aspects of Dublin late last year.

Today’s feature – ‘In Southeast Ireland, a Coastal and Culinary Destination’ – is the first in some time to venture outside the capital, however.

In it, author Shivani Vora cites Dungarvan as the centre of West Waterford’s “epicurean culture”, and singles out Paul and Máire Flynn’s Tannery restaurant and wine bar for several glowing paragraphs. 

“Renditions like grilled hake with barley and turnips accented with paprika butter, and glazed beef short ribs slow cooked in onion sauce, are simple yet pop with flavor,” Vora writes.

Smoked Salmon, Cliff House.jpg
Smoked salmon at the Cliff House, Ardmore.

Smoked salmon at the Cliff House, Ardmore.

Read more: Dublin is 'like walking into a Christmas card' - New York Times

The Dungarvan Brewing Company gets a mention, as does Anna LeVeque’s Triskel Goat Cheese, and Eunice Power’s pop-up dinners.

“Travelers who aren’t visiting during one of the events can always buy Ms. Power’s easily packable specialties in her charming home,” the author advises.

Vora credits the “spurt” in gourmet activity to the Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore, whose House Restaurant is led by chef Martijn Kajuiter.

“His artfully presented dishes, such as… organic salmon from nearby Bantry Bay with pickled vegetables and horseradish, are the reason for the boite’s 2010 Michelin star, an honor it has held onto since,” Vora says.

Perhaps the best way to sample the area’s cullinary delights is at the annual West Waterford Festival of Food (westwaterfordfestivaloffood.com) the author concludes.

It runs from April 9-12 of this year.

Read the full New York Times story here.

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