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The Skelligs: How to get to there, and how to get the most out of your trip

It takes a big effort (and a little luck) getting to the Skelligs. But proper planning makes for an unforgettable pay-off.

There was a 70pc chance of rain. Boats hadn't sailed the previous week.

I arrived in Kerry to slumberdown skies, hulking greyly over everything. My attempt to visit Skellig Michael, 13km offshore in the maritime mulch, was looking inauspicious, to say the least.

When I woke up the following morning, however, I opened the curtains to what could have been a Fáilte Ireland ad. The skies were blue. The water was glistening. The boatmen were hustling at the pier. An hour later, I was pulling on a borrowed set of oilskins, on my way to the ultimate UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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