Sunday 8 December 2019

Dublin 'is finding a new way to exist' - New York Times

What a difference 36 hours makes...

Dublin: GPO with statue of Jim Larkin
Dublin: GPO with statue of Jim Larkin
Chef: John Wyer of Forest Avenue restaurant
The Spa at The Marker Hotel
Pól Ó Conghaile

Pól Ó Conghaile

The New York Times travel section has spent 36 hours in Dublin, finding a city that has swapped "beamers" for bike schemes, and cocktails for craft beers. Rejoice!

It's not every day the New York Times comes to town.

With a daily circulation of some 1.8 million and one of the most storied brands in world media, this is a newspaper whose opinions count, and whose travel section influences the decisions of countless potential tourists.

Today, it visited Dublin - and the verdict is resoundingly good.

"Dublin’s been through tumultuous change in recent decades, from the Celtic Tiger years, when BMWs were de rigueur, to the post-crash depression," the paper reports in its popular '36 Hours' travel feature.

The author, Nell McShane Wulfhart, notes signs of recovery, albeit "a more refined wave of affluence than what the flashy boom years had to offer."

The city is finding "a new way to exist," she continues - "neither ostentatious with wealth nor bowed down under debt."

A "hugely popular" bike share programme has replaced the "beamers", she goes on to note. Craft beer is "gaining precedence" over cocktails, and Dublin restaurants are undergoing "a creative renaissance that prioritizes imagination and Irish ingredients over heavily stylized and overpriced dishes."

Even so, the paper reports, Dublin "has retained its glorious sense of history".

The itinerary itself is right on point - mixing up predictable tourist attractions like the Guinness Storehouse with local heroes like Brother Hubbard (the hip cafe anchoring a gritty resurgence on Capel Street) and Forest Avenue - one of the most pristine expressions of new Irish cuisine to have hit the city in recent years.

The New York Times, 36 Hours in Dublin:

  • Friday, 3pm: National Museum of Ireland, Kildare Street
  • Friday, 5.30pm: Against the Grain, Wexford Street
  • Friday, 8pm: The Green Hen, Exchequer Street
  • Friday, 10.30pm: Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street
  • Saturday, 10.30am: Christ Church Cathedral
  • Saturday, 1.30pm: Biking along the Liffey
  • Saturday, 3pm: Guinness Storehouse
  • Saturday, 7pm: Forest Avenue, Sussex Terrace
  • Saturday, 9pm: Sugar Club, Leeson St.
  • Sunday, 11am: Capel St., Henry St., O'Connell St.
  • Sunday, 3pm: Croke Park

Two five-stars hotels are recommended for overnight stays - The Marker (Dublin's "hottest new hotel"), and The Shelbourne ("anyone who's ever been anyone in Ireland has stopped here for a drink").

You can view the full story and accompanying video here.

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