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A secret slice of Spain – my drive to three cities in Castilla y León

Castilla y León may be Spain’s largest region, but it’s rarely visited by Irish travellers. When word of the food, wine and history get out, that may change...

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Salamanca Cathedral from the Tormes river

Salamanca Cathedral from the Tormes river

The Salamanca Diaries

The Salamanca Diaries

Valladolid’s Cathedral

Valladolid’s Cathedral

Conor Power overlooking Burgos

Conor Power overlooking Burgos

Morcilla de Burgos

Morcilla de Burgos

Plaza Mayor in Valladolid. Photo: Castille y Leon tourist office

Plaza Mayor in Valladolid. Photo: Castille y Leon tourist office

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Salamanca Cathedral from the Tormes river

“If someone says to you ¡Que te den morcilla!, it’s not a good thing,” says my guide Rosalía, animatedly. I don’t understand. How could someone wishing that you are given a morcilla (Spanish black pudding) be a bad thing?

We’re standing in the spring sunshine in Burgos’ main square — the Plaza Mayor — where I am getting a crash course in local idiomatic expressions. The morcilla de Burgos is a simple but very delicious tapa with black pudding, a piece of Iberico ham and some other magical ingredient, depending on which tapas bar you frequent. But back in the mists of time, Rosalía explains, outbreaks of rabies in Burgos were quelled by poisoning pieces of the morcilla beloved of man and dog alike, and feeding them to rabid hounds.


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