52 weekends away for 2023 – a travel adventure for every weekend this year

What about booking a ‘hometel’ in Belfast or a new flight to Bergen? Taking a trip to see Vermeer in Amsterdam or a Velorail in Mayo? Will Margate be the new Brighton? Can the Mourne Mountains match the wow factor of Wicklow?

Oh, and there’s also new bank holiday (for St Brigid’s Day) to look forward to.

The model for our annual travel calendar is simple. There are 52 weekends in the year, and we’ve suggested a great trip, in Ireland or overseas, for each. Many are tied to events, festivals and seasonal experiences — New Year’s Eve in Berlin or magnolias in Mount Congreve, for example. Some hinge on exciting new openings; some just made us drool. You could, of course, switch weekends, stay longer, or play with the suggestions. There are as many ways to travel as there are travellers.

Trends-wise, surveys continue to show a strong sentiment toward travel — despite inflation, war and economic concerns, it appears many of us will forgo luxuries elsewhere in order to get a short break or sun holiday in somehow.

That’s not surprising after Covid’s chaos. As 2023 unfolds, we expect hybrid working, cashless hospitality, pet-friendly travel, multi-gen trips and the new wave of wellness to continue, while sustainable holidaymaking becomes more urgent than ever.

There are some surprising new hotel openings and air routes to whet your appetite, too — to Cleveland with Aer Lingus, as an example. As we flock back to school holidays, travellers with flexible dates are also likely to get best rates and results.

The world awaits — have fun!

JANUARY

January 7-8
A Geopark getaway

Still haven’t blown off the Christmas cobwebs? The Cuilcagh Lakelands Geopark is a happy hunting ground for hikers of all hues, and remains little-known. There’s a web of walks and sites to explore in the countryside between Lower Lough Erne in Co Fermanagh and Lough Oughter in Co Cavan — the Stairway to Heaven, or Cuilcagh boardwalk trail, is the poster child (stick to the boardwalk to avoid trashing the landscape, and bear in mind that this steep hike will test the calves as well as the Christmas podge, so prepare properly). Gentler potters and buggy-friendly paths can be found in the Cavan Burren, a frolic around Florencecourt, or the 1km trail along the River Erne to Turbot Island’s Motte and Bailey, home to the Dreamscape outdoor art exhibition. There’s also a newish 12km greenway linking Killykeen Forest Park and Killeshandra. – PÓC

Do it: cuilcaghlakelands.org; thisiscavan.ie

January 13-15
See the light in Lucerne

Flanked by snow-capped mountains and the calm waters of Lake Lucerne, this Swiss city is always a bit of a showstopper. But in January, the streets are illuminated with the Lilu Light Festival Lucerne, where medieval buildings and landmarks are transformed with light installations every evening. You can wander around the city to take in the different sights, then head to the ÄON light show accompanied by live music. Then you can pop into one of the city’s cosy bars to warm up with some fondue and a glass of the local wine. Aer Lingus and Swiss fly from Dublin Airport to Zurich, an hour’s drive away. For a cool, design-led place to stay, check out the newly reopened boutique hotel Villa Maria, with quirky art on the walls and a 1950s vibe. – NB

Do it: lichtfestivalluzern.ch; villamaria.swiss

January 20-22
Carnival spirit in the Canaries

In the mood for a party? The first pay cheque of 2023 may be on the approach by now, and the Santa Cruz de Tenerife Carnival kicks off on January 20, marking the start of a month-long celebration around the island, with parades, music and parties all keeping the spirit up. Carnival aside, Tenerife is a solid destination for some guaranteed winter sun, which we’re all going to need during the bleakest month of the year. Better still, January is the cheapest month for a break in the Canaries, and it has been tempting visitors with the claim that a holiday there is cheaper than putting the heating on at home — at the time of writing, we found breaks in Tenerife from around €200 in January. – NB

Do it: carnavaldetenerife.com; hellocanaryislands.com

January 27-29
Tradfest in Temple Bar

It’s more than you think. Tradfest sees more than 50 live music gigs around the city, mixing up established and emerging acts in some tantalising spaces. Think of Iarla Ó Lionáird singing in the Pepper Canister Church, Féile Kíla, which sees the band joined by an eight-piece brass section at the National Stadium, or Niamh Regan in the newly restored Great Hall at Malahide Castle. There are TradKids events for children, and free Smithwick’s sessions in pubs around the city, too. If you’re still trying to get yourself in order after the Christmas splurge, Kathryn Thomas has a Pure Results bootcamp running over the same weekend at the K Club, 30km down the road (two days from €475pps). – PÓC

Do it: tradfesttemplebar.com; pureresults.ie; kclub.ie

FEBRUARY

February 3-6
St Brigid abú!

Is there anything more joyful than adding a new bank holiday to the calendar? This year, we have a bonus day off to break up the drudgery of the winter, with the St Brigid’s Day bank holiday falling on February 6. Make the most of it by taking a long weekend in Galway, where the occasion will be celebrated in style at Brigit’s Garden. Glenlo Abbey Hotel is less than 20 minutes away, where you can borrow bikes to mosey around the estate and its gardens, or cosy up in the cinema if the weather isn’t quite playing ball. Arriving on the Friday, a two-night break with dinner in the Pullman Restaurant started from €433pps as we went to press. – NB
Do it: brigitsgarden.ie, glenloabbeyhotel.ie

February 11-13
Join the culture club in Italy

Neighbouring Bergamo and Brescia unite as Italy’s first joint Capital of Culture this year. Helping kick off the year is The Festival of Light (Feb 10-17) in Brescia. Installations, screenings and lighting performances from international artists will turn the city into a giant illuminated outdoor art gallery. It’s followed by a programme of events, including new operas and art exhibitions. While you’re there, explore five UNESCO World Heritage Sites across the two cities, ride a funicular alongside ancient Venetian walls in Bergamo and potter among ruins of the Roman city of Brixia in Brescia. Ogle paintings by Caravaggio in art museums and sit in beautiful squares made for coffee and people-watching. Ryanair flies direct from Dublin to Milan-Bergamo. – EOR

Do it: bergamobrescia2023.it

February 17-19
Magic in Marrakech

Marrakech has a long tradition of storytelling. The main square, Djemaa el Fna, once echoed with men telling folk tales to entertain and educate both locals and visitors. Their numbers have dwindled, but visitors during the second Marrakech International Storytelling Festival (February 12-19) will be treated to a joyous hubbub of voices from all over the world — and in many languages. More than 80 storytellers will take over the city, including museums, monuments and the World Storytelling Cafe (which is organising the festival). Ryanair flies direct from Dublin to Marrakech; Sunway does packages; or you can find some cool, affordable riad stays at marrakech-riad.co.uk, which is also involved. Nobu plans to open a hotel in the Hivernage district, too. – EOR

Do it: worldstorytellingcafe.com; sunway.ie; nobohotels.com

February 24-26
Rugby in Rome

2023 is shaping up to be a roller-coaster year for rugby, with Andy Farrell’s Irish team on fire and a World Cup in France this autumn. That adds spice to the Six Nations (which is always pretty spicy to begin with), and the away fixture against Italy is always considered one of the best. Cassidy Travel and Killester Travel are just two of the travel agents doing sports packages (expect to pay around €800pps for flights, hotel, airport transfers and match tickets). While you’re there, consider extending the stay with a walk, horse, bike or ebike ride on the Appian Way. The Appia Antica is considered one of Europe’s earliest highways, stretching from Rome to Brindisi in Puglia, and Italy has been working on restoring it into what could be a stunning 560km pilgrimage route. – PÓC

Do it: cassidytravel.ie; rugbytravel.ie; italia.it

MARCH

March 3-5
Grazing in Galway

Galway is a city made for food lovers. From the line of people queuing up at the market for homemade bagels to the glossy croissants stacked in the window of Le Petit Délice, it’s hard to escape the nibbles that lay around every corner. But if you really want to maximise your munching, book a stroll with Galway Food Tours (from €75pp). Sheena Dignam will lead you around all the hottest spots in town, where you can dig into homemade chocolate truffles or warm doughnuts. This year, she’s launched new tours that combine food, fashion and craft, where you can sculpt your own ring or weave a St Brigid’s cross. Stay in The Dean, where you can work off all those treats in the newly opened Power gym, complete with hydrotherapy pool and thermal suite. – NB

Do it: galwayfoodtours.com, thedean.ie/galway

March 10-12
A Glenapp getaway

Edinburgh is a gorgeous city, filled with winding, cobbled streets, curved medieval buildings and sandy turrets (it’s also the location for the first Gleneagles Townhouse). But there’s lots to do on the fringes, too. A new Forth Bridges Trail is an 8km route circuiting the famous bridges connecting Edinburgh and Fife, while Glenapp Castle is a beautiful Scottish Baronial property in the depths of the Ayrshire countryside. Spring is a lovely time to see Scotland, and the hotel has just opened a new restaurant, Azalea Glasshouse, set within the walled garden where much of their produce is grown. Another reason Edinburgh may edge it this weekend? Ireland tackle Scotland in the Six Nations. – NB

Do it: visitscotland.com; glenappcastle.com; theforthbridges.org

March 17-19
Hideaway for Paddy’s Day

Another bank holiday already? Don’t mind if we do. This year, Paddy’s Day falls on a Friday, so we have a nice long weekend to play with. Instead of navigating the crowds at parades and parties, however, why not escape the madness and head to a remote bolthole in the countryside? Letteran Lodges are set at the foot of Slieve Gallion, Co Derry, with panoramic views of five counties through the giant panoramic windows (rates from £263/€230)You can snuggle up under a blanket and watch the light flitter over the rolling fields, or go one better and take a glass of wine into the private hot tub to drink in the views from there. A Happy St Patrick’s Day indeed. – NB

Do it: letteranlodges.com; visitderry.com

March 24-26
Last chance saloon for skiers

The ski season will be starting to thaw soon, so what about a last dash to the slopes? A fresh temptation is Hox Chalet in Morzine. Sitting pretty 1,000m up in the French Alps, the six-bed luxury mountain lodge comes with barrel sauna, wine cave, steaming hot tub and private plunge pool. It’s a new venture from Hoxton (from its ‘Hox on Tour’ arm), and extra touches include a private chef and Grey Goose vodka cocktail bar… though they had us at “mornings defined by the scent of fresh pastries and the sound of crunchy snow”. It sleeps up to 12, and has a limited run from February 15 to April 15. The catch? Erm, it costs £2,000/€2,325pp for seven nights, including five dinners. For cheaper dashes on the piste, check in with Crystal Ski or Topflight for late deals (best ski holiday prices are always found outside of school holidays). – PÓC

Do it: thehoxton.com/hox-chalet; crystalski.ie; topflight.ie

APRIL

March 31-April 2
Rhododendron wows in Wicklow

As the spring kicks into gear, the sight of blossoming flowers is a tonic for the soul. But forget the daffodils in your garden. The really spectacular display is at the Botanic Gardens in Kilmacurragh during Rhododendron Week. Early in April, the rhododendron trees (which date back two centuries) burst into life, creating a technicolour display of blossoms either side of the pretty pathways. When you’ve seen the blooms, drive 20 minutes over to Beyond the Trees at Avondale Forest Park — this treetop walk and viewing tower is a huge draw, and one of the reasons Wicklow was chosen as a top destination to visit in 2023 by National Geographic Traveller UK. – NB

Do it: botanicgardens.ie, beyondthetreesavondale.com

April 7-9
Easter in the sunny southeast

In April, the magnolias in Mount Congreve (€9/€5.50) will be in full, glorious bloom, and the house will be fresh out of a multi-million euro redevelopment, which has seen extensive work and new additions, including a new visitors’ centre and Stables Café. And, for the first time in its history, visitors will be able to enter the house itself, which was built in 1760 and home to six generations of Congreves (the Waterford Greenway passes by, though you’ll need to store your bike in the depot before exploring the gardens). Also relatively new to Waterford is the Barrow Princess River Cruise, which travels between Waterford and New Ross on the Barrow and Suir rivers. Make the trip in April, and you’ll see the riverbanks at their picturesque best. – NB

Do it: mountcongreve.com, barrowprincess.ie

April 14-16
Family thrills in France

All hail Parc Astérix! This theme park, near Paris, is based on the old French comic-strip character — but don’t let that put you off! Easy to navigate, it has rides and attractions to please both smallies and teens. This spring, a whole new section will be unveiled when the park reopens from April 9. Festival de Toutatis will include France’s fastest roller coaster, which will hit face-bending speeds of 110km hour. The zone will also have a family attraction based on state-of-the-art special effects (maybe designed for parents needing a breather between rides?) and a huge playground. Three onsite hotels and a 20-minute shuttle from Charles de Gaulle Airport add to what promises to be an easy all-round weekend choice. Day tickets start from €59/€51pp. A shuttle from Paris CDG Airport costs €10/€9. – EOR

Do it: parcasterix.fr/en

April 22-23
Hang ten in Sligo

It’s been a long time coming, but the National Surf Centre is finally opening in Strandhill. This state-of-the art facility cost a cool €2.7m, and will include an “interpretative display of the history of surfing in Ireland” as well as serving as a hub for all the surfers in the area. Just around the corner, surfers’ favourite Shells Café has had a makeover, with a new outdoor seating area and giant mural, designed by Chiara Tallarini. Also new to Strandhill is Nourished in Nature, running tailor-made workshops and retreats, including surfing, hiking and yoga. Just down the coast in Enniscrone, Tonnta Adventure is a new activity operator offering surfing, biking and hiking excursions. Phew! – NB

Do it: sligo.ie; shellscafe.com; nourishedinnatureireland.com; tonntaadventure.ie

April 28-May 1
Flower power in Madeira

May Day bank holiday on a sub-tropical island, anyone? Yes, it’s in the Atlantic, but Madeira makes for balmy weather year-round. This time of year offers the best chance to see whales, dolphins, porpoises and more. Stay in the buzzy, beautiful little capital, Funchal — an easy hop from the airport (Ryanair flies direct from Dublin). It’s also a great place from which to strike out on tours by jeep and on foot, delving into prehistoric forests, volcanic lava pools and extinct craters. The Madeira Flower Festival takes place this weekend — watch out for floats in Funchal adorned with an incredible variety of blooms, lots of dancing and lashings of local wine. – EOR

Do it: visitmadeira.com

MAY

May 6-8
Royal treatment in London

Book early for coronation weekend — it’s going to be busy. Join the crowds at Westminster Abbey for a glimpse of King Charles III and Queen Consort, Camilla. Feel like royalty yourself, albeit the Rock ‘n’ Roll variety, with a stay at the new Chateau Denmark (it opens on April 4). The buildings were once famous recording studios, now all jewel colours, fancy baths and maxi-bars. We also look forward to the return of Alice’s Adventures Underground — the immersive theatre event will now be in underground tunnels at Labyrinth Waterloo, with a new themed restaurant and bar. Worth a few hours is the recently opened second phase of the V&A photography collections, too — it includes a walk-in camera obscura portrait studio and cutting-edge contemporary photography. – EOR

Do it: chateaudenmark.com; thisislabyrinth.com; vam.ac.uk

May 13-14
Big it up in Brighton

Thinking of heading to Liverpool for Eurovision? Think again — even if you do magically get tickets to the event, the whole city is booked up. Instead, head down to the south coast for the Brighton Festival, which runs from May 6-28. For three weeks, the pretty city by the sea is taken over with theatre, music, comedy and dance, between venues like Taj Mahal lookalike the Brighton Dome to local pubs. Running alongside it from May 5 to June 4, the Brighton Fringe is home to the quirkier events that veer toward the downright bonkers, like Keanu is Coming, last year’s live-action recreation of Point Break. If you fancy visiting later in the summer, Trans Pride is on July 15, and 2023 marks its 10th anniversary.
Do it: brightonfestival.org; brightonfringe.org

May 19-21
Get arty in Amsterdam

Hurry to catch the world’s largest ever exhibition of Vermeer paintings, finishing on June 4 at Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum. Johannes Vermeer only achieved global recognition long after his death, and a grand total of 35 of his works are known to have survived. The Rijksmuseum will show at least 28 of them, many on loan from art museums around the world (from €30pp, but under-18s go free). They include the newly restored ‘Girl Reading a Letter at the Open Window’, old favourites such as ‘The Milkmaid’, and ‘Woman Writing a Letter, with her Maid’ (usually on view at our own National Gallery of Ireland). Vermeer’s talent lay in exquisitely capturing ordinary people in everyday scenes, enabling the viewer to have a private fly-on-the-wall moment. – EOR

Do it: rijksmuseum.nl/en; iamsterdam.com

May 27-28
Make like a local in Margate

Ever since the Turner Contemporary gallery opened, the British seaside town of Margate has been a magnet for hipsters. As well as the vintage shops and coffee joints, there’s the oldest-surviving amusement park, Dreamland (now with a renovated retro charm), as well as the Walpole Bay Tidal Pool, the biggest of its kind in the UK. Plus, Cliftonville in Margate was just named the coolest neighbourhood in the UK by Time Out, praised for its record shops and community-funded venues. In the spring, the new property from the cool collective GuestHouse will open its doors. No 42 Margate is set in a Victorian beachfront building and will have 21 rooms, a rooftop bar and a spa, along with an arty, quirky sense of style. – NB

Do it: turnercontemporary.org; guesthousehotels.co.uk/no-42-margate

JUNE

June 2-4
Lights out in Barcelona

Formula 1 isn’t just fast; it’s one of the world’s fastest-growing sports — thanks to Netflix’s Drive to Survive and a new wave of hot young drivers taking on old lions like Lewis Hamilton and Fernando Alonso. This weekend sees the circus roll into Catalunya for the Spanish Grand Prix (expect to pay from around €500pp for a package with the likes of Cassidy Travel or Abbey Travel, including general admission and hotels, with flights extra). A Grand Prix getaway with a difference could see you check into Camiral Golf & Wellness resort, however — the resort is a 40-minute transfer away, near Girona. Its new Camiral suites were designed by Ireland’s Bryan O’Sullivan, and a stunning wellness centre even offers cryotherapy, which sounds like a novel place to chill out after race day. A Couples Catalan Wellness Break starts from €570 per night. – PÓC

Do it: formula1.com; camiral.com; cassidytravel.ie; abbeytravel.ie

June 9-11
Belfast goes Belsonic

Belfast has been branded a UNESCO City of Music — the only one in Ireland to receive the award. The month of June is a juicy one to celebrate that, with Belsonic bringing a host of acts to Ormeau Park (think George Ezra, David Guetta, Lizzo and Florence + The Machine). Stay at the new Regency Hotel, a five-star self-catering set-up blending Georgian architecture with contemporary touches like a vinyl library, copper baths or dedicated workspaces; or a more affordable ‘hometel’ — Room2 plans to open its blend of hotel, aparthotel and Airbnb-style stay here in June. A tour of the city with Dolores Vischer of Creative Tours Belfast will ensure you don’t miss any of the musical heritage (as well as an expert guide, she has worked as a journalist and drummed in a band). – PÓC

Do it: belsonic.com; theregencybelfast.com; creativetoursbelfast.com

June 16-18
Make a beeline for Art Basel

The world’s most important contemporary art fair sees more than 250 galleries and 4,000 artists from around the world come together in Basel for a schmoozefest of creatives, collectors and curators. The main exhibition takes place at Messe Basel in a hall designed by superstar international architects Herzog & de Meuron, whose base is in Basel. While the early part of the week is by invitation only, the weekend is open to the public, and Parcours Night — featuring site-specific pieces in Basel’s Old Town — takes place on Saturday, June 17. If the idea of immersing yourself in contemporary art for a few days is your idea of heaven (the city also has a vibrant street-art scene), your biggest challenge is going to be finding somewhere affordable to stay... though Zurich is about 90 minutes away. – KMG

Do it: artbasel.com; basel.com

June 23-25
Party in Porto

Lisbon is getting crowded these days, so catch a direct flight from Dublin to Portugal’s second city. This weekend sees the Festival of Sao Joao (St John) — the annual street party on June 23 has been celebrated since pagan times, which might explain the roots of some rather bizarre traditions, like people hitting each other with giant inflatable hammers and garlic flowers! Add in feasting and fireworks and it ends up a jolly night all round. Sandwich your night with sightseeing around the historic centre and a cruise down the Douro River, stopping off to sample the famous port wine in huge cellars on the banks. WOW Porto opened in 2020 and houses six interactive museums, nine restaurants and a wine school within vast disused warehouses. Ryanair will fly direct from Shannon Airport to Porto for summer 2023 (it already flies from Dublin). – EOR

Do it: visitportugal.com; ryanair.com

JULY

June 30-July 2
Hit the food trail in Kenmare

TV cook and Irish food blogger Karen Coakley’s three-hour Kenmare Foodie Tours are a delight, and your passport to getting under the culinary skin of the Kerry town where she lives and works, despite being a blow-in from across the county border in Cork. Coakley’s a true local and she’ll walk you around the town’s best food spots and give you the inside track on where to get the best cheese, coffee, chocolate, pastries and other good things to eat and drink. She also offers private tours of the Beara Peninsula, meeting up with farmers and artisan producers before finishing up with a pint and a crab sandwich at Helen’s in Kilmackillogue. Where to stay? The Little House, five minutes’ walk from Kenmare town centre, is a stylish Airbnb sleeping four, and the dog-friendly Oak Lane Glamping has bespoke cabins overlooking Kenmare Bay (@oaklaneglamping). – KMG

Do it: kenmarefoodies.com; airbnb.ie

July 8-9
Make for Manchester

It was cursed by the airport chaos of 2022 but, this year, everything is coming up Manchester. The new cultural space, Factory International, is opening in June, with an immersive (inflatable) exhibition from Yayoi Kusama, before the Danny Boyle-directed production in October. There are two exciting hotel openings, too — the sustainability-led Treehouse Hotel will open in the spring, with a restaurant from Mary-Ellen McTague of Fat Duck. Also opening is Mollie’s Manchester, a cool motel-style offering set in the Old Granada Studios, in partnership with Soho House, which will be opening its first northern location next door. The former industrial railway bridge, Castlefield Viaduct, has just opened as a High Line-style public park, and Diecast Manchester, a massive beer hall/food market will be opening soon. You might want to make this one a long weekend… – NB

Do it: treehousehotels.com; mollies.com

July 14-16
Back to the 1980s in Kildare

For those of a certain age, this is a chance to let your hair down without judgment! The Forever Young Festival at Palmerstown House Estate will dish up 1980s hits from original bands alongside tribute acts. Names for 2023 are yet to be confirmed, but last year’s line-up included The Undertones, T’Pau, The Christians and Nik Kershaw plus Queen, George Michael and U2 tribute bands. There’s glamping on site as well as hotel/ticket packages (weekend camping from €252). While in the area, check out the Shackleton Museum in Athy, which is being developed into a larger experience — to include not only his actual sledge, but also the hut in which the Antarctic explorer died (it has been restored after being used for years as a makeshift garden shed). – EOR

Do it: foreveryoungfestival.ie; shackletonmuseum.com; intokildare.ie

July 21-23
Magnificent 700 in Vilnius

Know where Lithuania is on a map? You’re not alone. This Baltic state is bordered by Latvia, Belarus and Poland, and its atmospheric capital, Vilnius, is accessible via direct flights from Dublin. It’s an easy city — cheap to visit, compact and packed with history, art and culture. This year is special as it celebrates its 700th birthday, too. Events will range from dance to travelling opera and film. The first ever Vilnius International Performance Art Biennial starts from July 22, with performances from local and international artists. In between, explore the narrow streets, admire the architecture (and more than 30 churches), chancing across hidden courtyards, leafy squares, and inviting bars and restaurants. Vilnius is surrounded by forests and parks just perfect for picnics and walks. – EOR

Do it: 700vilnius.lt/en; vilniusbiennial.com

July 28-30
Do Dún Laoghaire

If you haven’t been to Dún Laoghaire in forever, this is the year to do it. Just a short Dart ride from Dublin’s city centre, the seaside town has been undergoing a quiet resurgence, with a reopening of its baths (albeit without a pool — though you can swim from the lower deck), vibrant murals popping all over the streets (find a map at dlrcoco.ie/en/dlanseo), and a delicious refurb of Haddington House (check out its sultry Parlour Bar). Among the shopping centres are a surprising number of small businesses — Lulabelle’s boutique or Eatyard’s The Lighthouse pub, for example. Keep an eye on Dún Laoghaire-Rathdown County Council’s summer heritage programme. It includes rare guided tours of one of Ireland’s artistic Easter eggs — the Oratory of the Sacred Heart, painted by Sr Concepta Lynch from 1920 to 1936, which is like a mini, Celtic Revival-style Sistine Chapel contained within a capsule building. Swim at the Forty Foot, and finish it all off with a ’99 from Teddy’s Holy Hatch. – PÓC

Do it: haddingtonhouse.ie; lulabelle.ie; dlrtourism.ie

AUGUST

August 5-8
Magic in the Mournes

Could Co Down be the new Wicklow? I can’t find a way to make that rhyme, but I can offer a reason (or several). The mountains that partly inspired CS Lewis’s Narnia Chronicles feel weirdly off-radar to many Irish visitors, but their hiking trails, the growth of electric bike hire (mountain bikes are also an option), the terrific Tollymore Forest Park and a £16m reboot of the five-star Slieve Donard Hotel all look set to raise that profile in 2023. Another positive development sees a Global Geopark bid by Newry, Mourne and Down making headway, with a final submission set to go before the UNESCO executive board in France this year, too. If you’re a golfer, pack the clubs — Royal County Down in Holywood is “Our Rory’s” club, as they say. – PÓC

Do it: visitmournemountains.co.uk; slievedonardhotel.com

August 11-13
Va Va Velorail in Mayo

Mayo was the county that gave us our first Greenway, which opened back in 2010 and has since spurred many a copycat. And this year, it will be hot on a new railway trend, when the Velorail opens in Kiltimagh. Instead of replacing the railway with a bike or footpath, the Velorail will use the existing tracks, upon which people will sit on pedal-powered carriages. Elsewhere in Mayo, this year marks the 300th anniversary of the founding of Ballina, and there is a whole year of celebrations, from the Macnas parade in July to the River Moy Swim. Further out on the Mullet Peninsula, Blacksod Sea Safari is now offering tours of the uninhabited Inishkea Islands, as well as the Coastal Explorer Wildlife Watching Tour, where you might spot otters, seals and dolphins — there have even been orca seen in these waters. All reasons to make for Mayo this year! – NB

Do it: mayo.ie; ballina2023.ie; blacksodseasafari.ie

August 18-20
Get your grill on

For wannabe pitmasters and mistresses, The Big Grill — Ireland’s biggest barbecue and craft beer event — is a smoke-scented nirvana; a three-day event featuring celebrity chefs, masterclasses and a glorious cornucopia of barbecue nerdery in Dublin. For the rest of us, it’s a chance to hang out in the surroundings of Herbert Park and sample delicious food cooked over just about every kind of coal and fire you can think of. At the time of going to press, the line-up hadn’t been announced, but organiser Andy Noonan can be relied upon to pull a few great names out of the bag. If you’re visiting Dublin for the weekend, perhaps stay at Press Up’s latest hotel, The Leinster, located on Lower Mount Street in Dublin 2, within walking distance from Herbert Park and due to open shortly. – KMG

Do it: biggrillfestival.com; pressup.ie

August 25-27
Off-grid in Olbia

The last week in August can be cheaper for sun holidays, with schools shaping up to return. Sardinia has a new option this year in Olbia, which is a fresh route for Aer Lingus taking off in May (Kos in Greece and Brindisi in Puglia are other new arrivals). The ancient Greeks called it ‘olbìa’, or ‘happiness’, and it’s considered a gateway to the island’s Emerald Coast. It’s possible to explore the small city in a long weekend, but there’s plenty of reasons to stretch that too — the town is filled with medieval history and sandy beaches, and is described by Lonely Planet as “a refreshingly authentic and affordable alternative to the purpose-built resorts stretching to the north and south”. – PÓC

Do it: aerlingus.com; sardegnaturismo.it/en

SEPTEMBER

September 1-3
Exquisite eats in East Cork

Co Cork already punches above its weight in terms of Ireland’s allocation of Michelin stars, with Dede in Baltimore, Chestnut in Ballydehob, Bastion in Kinsale and Ichigo Ichie in Cork City already proud holders of the food world’s most coveted accolade. Word is that this year’s Michelin announcement will see at least one star, if not two, awarded to Vincent Crepel’s new fine-dining restaurant at the Castlemartyr Resort, so the smart money says get your booking in early before the Guide makes it impossible to get a table (tasting menu €140pp). If you’re roving around the Rebel County, visit St Francis Provisions in Kinsale next to guarantee a weekend of great eating. Further afield, Lignum in Bullaun, Co Galway, is also tipped to get the Michelin nod, and the same advice applies — especially if you want to be able to stay at the excellent Ryan Lodges Airbnb nearby. – KMG

Do it: terre.ie; facebook.com/stfranciskinsale; lignum.ie

September 8-10
EuroPride in Malta

The Rainbow Map and Index ranks 49 countries in Europe on their policies for LGBTQ+ people, and for the seventh year in a row, Malta has topped the list. So it’s no surprise that the city of Valletta was chosen to host this year’s EuroPride 2023. From September 7-17, the streets of Valletta will welcome one of the largest LGBTQ+ events in the world, with opening parties, speed-dating, boat parties and the EuroPride Valletta Pride March. There will also be a huge concert after the march, as well as a grand after party. Ryanair flies to Malta from Dublin. – NB

Do it: visitmalta.com

September 15-18
Go wild in the Cairngorms

The Scottish Highlands are always beautiful, but especially so in autumn. The woodlands, mountains and moorlands of Cairngorms National Park are packed with wildlife, including pine martens, otters and golden eagles, roe deer, reindeer and red deer (this is rutting season). Guided by a professional wildlife tracker, explore on foot by day. Then, as night falls, learn about Scottish folklore and astronomy around the campfire and stay in a tipi-style tent with a wood burner. While you’re in the area, head up Cairngorm Mountain on the recently reopened funicular, for far-reaching views. Then warm up with a wee dram of whisky at The Cairn Distillery, the first to be built in the park for over a century. Responsible Travel has a week for £600/€695pps, but nightly prices are also available, with a three-night minimum stay. – EOR

Do it: cairngorms.co.uk; responsibletravel.com

September 22-24
Ireland v South Africa

It’s Rugby World Cup time! Ireland’s pool game against the Springboks is set to be a titanic clash, but don’t make it the sole focus of your trip to Paris (sports travel packages are sold by Rugby Travel Ireland and Club Travel, among others). If your nerves and stomach can withstand the tension enough to enjoy a good meal, our top tip is Bistrot Paul Bert, a classic crowd-pleaser, but you’d be advised to book ahead as it’s deservedly super-popular. If you fancy something trendier, then Mokonuts in the 11th may be more your thing. And if you want to combine a little culture with your rugby and cote de boeuf, get organised in good time and book a visit to Le Corbusier’s La-Roche Jeanneret houses in the 16th, home to the Fondation Le Corbusier museum and archives. The La Roche house is a little jewel and, along with several of the architect’s other works, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. – KMG

Do it: bistrotpaulbert.fr; mokonuts.com; fondationlecorbusier.fr

September 29-October 1
Delicious Dingle

If December sees the music community descend on Dingle for Other Voices, the last weekend in September is when the food world learns who has won out in the annual Blas na hÉireann Awards, celebrating the best in Irish food. It’s a great excuse to eat your way around the town, with a full programme of events as well as markets, food trails, cookery demos, masterclasses, and the opportunity to meet up with farmers and artisan food producers. Those in the know will probably have already booked their room in Castlewood House (B&B from €150 per night), which has a peerless reputation when it comes to hospitality and serves one of the best breakfasts in Ireland, but you might just get lucky. – KMG

Do it: dinglefood.com; castlewooddingle.com

OCTOBER

October 7-8
Renoir in Guernsey

With the launch of the Dublin-to-Guernsey flights last year, this little island is still relatively new on our radar. And this year, we’ll be lured over not just by the white-sand beaches and excellent hiking, but by a new Renoir exhibition. This large-scale exhibition will include many paintings, some of which were inspired by the artist’s time in the Channel Islands, alongside pieces from Monet and Gauguin. You can also take a walk around the locations that inspired Renoir on the Moulin Huet Renoir walk, where giant frame installations showcase the very settings immortalised in his paintings. – NB

Do it: aurigny.com, visitguernsey.com

October 12-15
A break in Bergen

New direct flights with Widerøe will connect Dublin to this Norwegian harbourside city this year, making a weekend eminently doable. Bergen is a perfect combination of urban culture and natural wonders, with easy day trips to the surrounding fjords and glaciers. Stay in the city itself — maybe at the new Hotell Haven, which will have a big emphasis on sustainability (it opens in May). Then check out the wharf, lined with colourful wooden buildings. At Kode 3, the world’s third-largest collection of Munch paintings will be on display together again this year (after loans to other countries). Get out on the water and bring out your inner Wim Hof on a City Sauna & Cruise, where you alternate time in the heat followed by plunges into the chilly fjord. Invigorating… apparently! – EOR

Do it: wideroe.no; visitbergen.com; debergenske.no/en/hotels

October 20-22
The ultimate train treat

You’re going to be hearing a lot about the Orient Express this winter. In 2024, Accor will launch its hotly anticipated Orient Express La Dolce Vita, crossing Italy via six iconic itineraries. The brand’s first hotels, in Rome and Venice, will open too. In 2025, Maxime d’Angeac’s stunning reimagination of the original Orient Express will follow. If you still have pandemic savings (or deep pockets — even the shortest trips cost thousands), book a trip on Belmond’s Venice Simplon-Orient-Express before the reboots pull into the station. The train recently launched new Art Deco-style suites, complete with ensuite marble bathrooms and beds that convert to a lounge area by day. How about flying to Venice, and spending a night at the classy Cipriani Hotel before boarding this iconic train and imagining you are Agatha Christie all the way to Paris? Without the murder, of course. – EOR

Do it: belmond.com; group.accor.com

October 27-30
A spooky stay in Derry

Billing itself as Europe’s biggest Halloween festival, Derry’s spooktacular celebrations were back in the ghoulish groove after pandemic disruptions. The Walled City is a brilliant backdrop for events ranging from the carnival parade to fireworks displays, light installations and walking trails. You’ve got a new accommodation option, too — the Ebrington Hotel & Spa is set to open this year, bringing a new luxury layover to the city centre with views of the Peace Bridge and Guildhall. If you’re planning to visit at a different time, the Imbolc music festival (January 29 to February 5) is a great option, and the GAA World Games are coming to Derry from July 24-27. – PÓC

Do it: derryhalloween.com; theebringtonhotel.com; pucafestival.com

NOVEMBER

November 3-5
Biking and buildings in Copenhagen

The baton of World Capital of Architecture 2023 has passed from Rio de Janeiro to Copenhagen, where the theme is ‘Sustainable Futures — Leave No One Behind’. Make like a local and explore the city using pedal power. Visit Copenhagen has mapped out a 22km self-guided bike tour taking in everything from the iconic 8 Tallet to the ski slope at CopenHill, the wild-looking Kaktus-Towers and the Superkilen urban open space in trendy Nørrebro. One cool, well-located and reasonably priced hotel is Villa Copenhagen, set in what used to be the Central Post & Telegraph Head Office. The hotel’s historic architecture sits well with its contemporary Nordic interior. And, while dinner at Noma may not fall within your budget, smørrebrød at Schønnemann won’t break the bank. – KMG

Do it: visitcopenhagen.com; villacopenhagen.com

November 10-12
A Longford layover

November can be one of the cheapest months for a sneaky short break. ‘Cheap’ will be relative in 2023, of course, but as an example, a four-night break in Center Parcs Longford Forest is currently quoting from €649 for a family of four in a two-bedroom woodland lodge, or from €849 for a three-night weekend (in July, by contrast, those prices start from €1,499 and €1,049). If you bring the bikes, Longford is home to a lovely, off-road section of the restored Royal Canal Way and National Famine Way — there’s a bike-friendly Mid-Shannon Wilderness Park in the works, too. Drivers could also take a spin on the Longford Rebel Trail, an off-radar route with a new audio element, taking in a stop at the Knights & Conquests Heritage Centre in Granard. – PÓC

Do it: centerparcs.ie; longford.ie; knightsandconquests.ie

November 17-19
Feast on Istanbul

This time of year, when the ferocious heat and crowds have dissipated, is a great time to visit Istanbul. There are oodles of tempting restaurants to dive into and, with Michelin recently bringing out its first guide to the city, it’s easy to discover some of the best. For the ultimate treat, head for Turk Fatih Tutak, which has two Michelin stars and Turkish flavours with a twist. And, while you’re splashing out, how about a stay at the new Peninsula Istanbul, next to the Bosphorus River? Enjoy the rooftop restaurant and basement spa, with a lavish hammam for some pampering. You’ll deserve it after pounding the streets to cram in Istanbul’s unmissable sights — from the magnificent Hagia Sophia to the Topkapi Palace, former home of the sultans. – EOR

Do it: turkft.com; peninsula.com/istanbul; istanbul.goturkiye.com

November 24-26
Go wild in Exmoor

You can never go wrong with an outdoor bath. Particularly one that’s made from copper and perched on the edge of a remote cabin hideaway, with endless views over the wild and dramatic moors. There are five cabins that make up the newly opened Rest + Wild, on the edge of Exmoor National Park in Devon (three nights from £595/€688; Ryanair flies to Bristol). There’s a proper sense of blissful solitude, with nothing to do but take long walks in the countryside, sit by the fire and enjoy that aforementioned tub. It’s also a wildlife hotspot, with creatures like Exmoor ponies and England’s largest wild red deer herd all roaming nearby. This area is also an International Dark Sky Reserve, so it’s best seen in winter, when the skies are dark and thick with stars. – NB

Do it: restandwild.co

DECEMBER

December 1-3
Winter in Waterford

Winterval is Waterford’s time to shine, a community-led Christmas festival that sees the city light up with vintage carousels, wooden chalets, mini-trains, ice skating and a Ferris Wheel. It rebounded last year after the Covid chaos, and the pride locals feel toward it will warm the cockles as much as any mulled wine or hot chocolate from the stalls. Stay centrally at the old-school Granville Hotel, one of 60 or so independently owned properties in the Original Irish Hotels collection, and decorate your Insta grid with passing snaps of the city’s magnificent spread of murals (more street art will be added during the Waterford Walls festival this summer). Other small cities doing cosy Christmas markets include Belfast, Galway and Kilkenny. – PÓC

Do it: winterval.ie; originalirishhotels.com; wallsproject.ie

December 8-10
A Stockholm smorgasbord

Sweden plays a leading role in all things sustainable, and it’s testament to the way its restaurant scene has thrived in recent years, pursuing food that doesn’t compromise the environment, that Stockholm has been named European Capital of Gastronomy for 2023 (coincidentally the year Sweden celebrates 500 years as a nation state). The Stockholm Good Food Guide is a useful edit of the city’s most sustainable restaurants and cafés. For a unique dining experience, book into Ekstedt, Niklas Ekstedt’s eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant, where the chef cooks without gas or electricity, using only natural heat, charcoal and smoke. And if you’re an Abba fan, you’ll want to make time for a visit to the interactive museum dedicated to the most famous Swedes of all time; the truly hardcore can go the whole hog and stay at the Backstage Hotel next door.

Do it: stockholmgoodfoodguide.com; ekstedt.nu; abbathemuseum.com

December 15-17
Line out in Limerick

The International Rugby Experience in Limerick will be one of this year’s biggest new visitor attractions when it opens this spring — a 30,000sq ft structure on O’Connell Street backed by JP McManus, designed by Event Communications (of Titanic Belfast and EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum) and chaired by rugby legend Paul O’Connell. Visitors will be taken on a six-part journey following the game from its grass roots to galacticos like Jonny Wilkinson, Nigel Owens and Thierry Dusautoir, with immersive theatre spaces reliving famous moments, and interactive elements inviting you to showcase your own speed, strength and handling skills. Bonus points if you can book a Munster fixture in Thomond Park this weekend, and we tip No 1 Pery Square or The Bedford Townhouse for nearby, cosy, city-centre stays. – PÓC

Do it: internationalrugbyexperience.com; oneperysquare.com; thebedford.ie

December 22-24
Christmas crackers

Stuck for stocking fillers? Give Amazon the swerve for the Christmas markets in Galway, Kilkenny or Belfast. A mosey among the huts and chalets is full of good cheer and local goodies, and leads naturally to a nose around smaller shops and boutiques — think of Coffeewerk + Press or Charlie Byrne’s bookshop in Galway, Yesterdays in Kilkenny, or Belfast’s On the Square Emporium. If winter sun is on the menu, bear in mind that popular destinations like the Canary Islands can cost an arm and a leg at this time of year. A last-minute deal to Agadir in Morocco, however, was being quoted from €321pp in the lead-up to last Christmas. Worth a thought. – PÓC

Do it: yulefestkilkenny.ie; visitbelfast.com; galwaytourism.ie

December 29-31
Back to the future in Berlin

There are two ways to nail New Year’s Eve. You can go small, staying in for Jools Holland’s Hootenanny; or you can go big. And by big, we mean toasting 2024 against the backdrop of Berlin’s Brandenburg Gate. The line-up last time round ranged from Sasha to the Scorpions (yes, they played Wind of Change), but you need to plan your Silvester — as New Year’s Eve celebrations are known in Germany — carefully, as just a couple of thousand free tickets go on sale in early December. But even so, there’s no city like this for nights out, from cabaret to comedy shows, Christmas markets and several floors of DJs and dancing at the iconic Kulturbrauerei. While you’re here, check out the Freedom and Unity Monument set to open in 2023 — a 50m bowl that tilts like a seesaw when enough people are on board — or pack a costume for the New Year’s Eve runs. – PÓC

Do it: berlin.de; berliner-silvester.de; germany.travel