Life

Thursday 17 October 2019

To the manor born... Clodagh McKenna is comfortable living the 'Downton Abbey' life

With Taste of Dublin about to begin, Clodagh McKenna spoke to Donal Lynch about ambition, grief and her ‘Downton’ boyfriend, and she shares some delicious recipes from her latest cookbook

Chef Clodagh McKenna. Photo: Dora Kazmierak
Chef Clodagh McKenna. Photo: Dora Kazmierak
Chef Clodagh McKenna. Photo: Dora Kazmierak
Chef Clodagh McKenna. Photo: Dora Kazmierak
Raspberry & Rosewater Pavlova
Barbecued Rump with Chimichurri
Clodagh's Suppers: Suppers to celebrate the seasons by Clodagh McKenna is published by Kyle Books, £20.00, www.kylebooks.co.uk
Donal Lynch

Donal Lynch

It's late afternoon in beautifully bucolic Hampshire, and from her office in the grounds of Highclere Castle - where they film Downton Abbey - Clodagh McKenna has just spent an industrious few hours tending to her culinary empire. She's had meetings about her new Channel 4 show, Beat the Chef, which will see her pit her skills against members of the public; she's written up her Evening Standard column, and now she settles in for interviews to promote Taste of Dublin, at which she will be hosting cooking demonstrations.

"I've been involved with Taste since the start, and I think it's the best food festival there is," she tells me. "The venue in the Iveagh Gardens is incredible, the best setting in Dublin, and you get to enjoy all these little small plates with your friends. I can't think of a better way to enjoy food."

It's a ringing endorsement from a woman who has become a national arbiter of all things food-related, as well as our newly minted emissary in aristocratic England. The latter status comes courtesy of her boyfriend, the Honourable Harry Herbert, whose blood could hardly be bluer. Herbert is the grandson of the Earl of Carnarvon, who, along with Howard Carter, discovered the tomb of Tutankhamun in Egypt in 1922. Herbert's brother-in-law and father were bloodstock advisors and racing managers to the Queen. They've just finished filming Downton, the movie, in the house where he grew up, and he and Clodagh share a home in the grounds of the castle.

Not that she finds her new surroundings intimidating - she makes it sound like she was to the manor born. "Some people mind find it daunting getting to know someone like Harry, but a lot of the things that would daunt other people would kind of go over my head," she explains of the now two-year-old relationship.

"Manners and things like that are important, but when you fall for someone, you realise what's important in life, and the most important thing is that the person is lovely and kind, and nothing more. Their background really isn't important," she says.

Moving with Harry from London - where she still has a studio - to Hampshire, has also been a way to reconnect with her own rural roots, Clodagh says. "We lived in Montenotte when I was a teenager, but I spent my childhood in the country just outside of Blarney... I think when you grow up in the country, you never really get away from that. It's so peaceful, and I love foraging and being outdoors."

Just as the press fascination with Meghan Markle's observance of royal protocol is understandable, so too is a curiosity about how McKenna has adapted to this rarefied world. Perhaps the most courteous and upper-crust way of dealing with differences is to blankly pretend they don't exist - that seems to be Clodagh's tactic, anyway.

"I didn't learn anything about etiquette and all that stuff [from getting to know Harry]," she says. I mention Terry Wogan's quote about the Irish benefiting from being outside British social class, but she tells me that class isn't something that she has ever thought about: "Social climbing is not what it's about for me."

Sunny disposition

Anyway, if anyone is punching above their weight, relationship-wise, it's probably Herbert. In our celebrity-obsessed world, fame counts for slightly more than mere breeding and, over the last decade, McKenna has established herself as one of our most popular celebrity chefs.

Her sunny disposition and irrepressible charm have helped her break the UK - she is a regular fixture on morning telly there, and has appeared alongside the likes of Nigella Lawson - and America, where she has a regular slot on the Rachael Ray Show and the Marilyn Denis Show. She recently launched a new brand of gin with Glendalough Distillery, for Tesco.

In between, she's dealt with broken relationships, business ventures that didn't work, and the death of her father; hers is a story of survival as much as it is one of glittering success. "Every single thing I've done took a lot of work," she explains. "There were a lot of doors to knock on, and a lot of rejection. It's when rejections come that you have to keep believing in something. You have to know when to stop and when not to stop."

She grew up between the Cork countryside and Montenotte, the youngest of four children. Her father was a guard and her mother was a legal secretary. It was a normal semi-d household, but her parents grew their own vegetables and always had fresh linens and flowers on the table.

Because both of her parents worked outside the home, she and her siblings helped out with the household chores, and Clodagh says that her work ethic started early in life: "I got it from my parents, but you teach yourself that stuff as well, and that's what I did. I think the Irish are inbuilt good workers. From the time I was a child, I had a sense that nothing was going to be handed to me; I had to go out and get it."

While still in her teens, she won a scholarship to go to the prestigious NYU in downtown Manhattan. She was too young and probably too driven - she had scholarship grades to maintain - to avail of the student party scene in those years, but it was a period when she came to a realisation about how she would work in the years ahead.

"I really just began to understand during that time that, whatever happened, I was definitely not going to work for someone else," she explains. "I just wanted that independence and freedom to do my own thing - that was actually more important to me than success."

Armed with this valuable piece of self-knowledge, as well as a business master's, she returned to Ireland, and set her sights on establishing herself as a chef here. Aside from being an Irish foodie Mecca, Ballymaloe has strong connections with the New York culinary scene, and it was there, in Cork, that Clodagh decided she would learn her trade.

Her parents co-signed a credit union loan for her to attend Ballymaloe's famous cookery course, and Darina and Myrtle Allen taught her everything they knew. After the three-month course, Clodagh stayed on as a chef in Ballymaloe for more than two years and, during that time, she started producing breads, pates, and sauces for the renowned farmers' market in Midleton, east Cork. She often worked late into the night.

"I was so young after Ballymaloe, and so passionate about food, that it didn't feel like work. When you love what you do so much, there is nothing else you want to do, and even on the days that are hard, you never think of giving up on it. I don't put in the long hours now; I don't work weekends; but there was a time when I worked crazy hours, and I did feel a bit burnt-out."

She had met Sebastiano Sardo - whose father, Piero, was one of the founders the Slow Food Movement - in the early noughties and moved to Turin with him towards the latter half of that decade. After they split, she subsequently embarked on a four-year personal and professional relationship with Peter Gaynor, with whom she opened several food businesses. Together they brought her brand to Arnotts, Aer Lingus and Blackrock Village in Dublin, where they had a restaurant. The fortunes of the three ventures were mixed.

Trusting instincts

"[Clodagh's Kitchen at] Arnotts did well during the recession. So it all worked really well," she explains. "Blackrock didn't work well. It was a lesson for me in terms of trusting my instincts more. People thought I was mad letting go of Aer Lingus, but I like being authentic and I felt it was not working out."

It was around the time these ventures ended that she moved to London, where she already had a posse of friends, including Fiona Leahy, who runs a design agency in the English capital; and Sally Greene, who owns the Old Vic and Ronnie Scott's. To pay the bills, she also undertook a fascinating experiment: she opened her own kitchen to paying punters, serving them up the best of her cooking.

"I did two or three [suppers] in a row per month for about six months. Everyone was like-minded in that people loved food, but what was surprising was that people were flying in from all over Europe. There was a big emphasis in making the table look beautiful. It was also where the idea for the book Clodagh's Suppers came from," she says.

The experience taught her what the most important elements of being a hostess are, as well as the potential pitfalls: "I wouldn't really call it a mistake, but people get stressed about trying to make things perfect," she explains. "For me, it's all about taking the stress out of it.The most important thing is that you, as a host, are relaxed. It's all about the feeling when the guests walk in the door, and the food is really secondary to that. It's important to plan out your dishes - you can make things ahead of time. There should be very little to do on the day. In terms of presentation, work with the seasons; comfort and textures are important."

Lighting is something people often overlook, she says. "Soft lighting is so important. Strong lighting doesn't make anyone look good. Everyone looks good in candlelight. I would love to live by candlelight."

The late, great food critic AA Gill loathed dinner parties, because, he said, "They usurp the most basic human goodness of hospitality and succour and turn it into a homunculus of social climbing." Clodagh says that in her experience there is no pretension around dinner parties, however. "That's not what it's about for me. If you talk to anyone in the creative world, it's just about making the table beautiful and really letting that thread within you unleash."

She had been on American TV before - she'd appeared on The Nate Berkus Show, which is owned by Oprah Winfrey's media group - but it was a fateful appearance on NBC's flagship daytime programme, The Today Show, three years ago, which crystallised the feeling that she had made it in The Big Apple.

Her segment went down a storm, and by the time she'd returned to her hotel, the producers had called, inviting her back. Her phone began to blow up with people trying to congratulate her, but rather than field excited calls, she took a little time for herself.

"It was so exciting when I found out. I was on my own walking down Park Avenue," she recalls. "God, it's so cheesy, I probably shouldn't tell you this, but I put Where the Streets Have No Name by U2 on my headphones and just blasted that song. I walked the length of Manhattan, from the Rockerfeller Centre to the East Village. It took over an hour. I didn't care if I ever got back again, I just needed that time to myself. It was an incredible feeling."

She says the overall key to her coming over so well in these appearances is "authenticity", and she brought that approach to her personal life, too. Marriage was never particularly important to her, she explains, and she rose above the pressure society puts on women to get hitched. "I just stuck to being true to myself. You have to keep pulling yourself back to what you want and believe."

Does she think she would still have achieved the same success if she'd had children? "Yeah, I definitely think so. If you want something, you can make it work. I'm sure I would have." Hampshire is now "home", she says, but she gets back to Ireland frequently. Her father died three years ago. "It was a tough period, but it's also part of life," she says of the period after his death. "He had a very good life."

She's about to appear in a new Channel 4 series called Beat the Chef, and says the concept challenged her. "I'm one of four chefs and we are the house chefs, and you come on and have your signature dish that you love," she explains. "I get to see the dish for one minute, then both of us have to go our work stations, and then we are on the clock. I have to try to create the best version of their dish, and they do the same. It's given to five critics, and if the contestant gets just one vote, they get through to the next round. If you last all five rounds, you get £10,000. Frankly, I was shocked at the talent out there, some of it is incredible."

She turned 44 the week before we speak, but says birthdays are not an occasion for reflection on the past. Instead, her eyes are permanently trained on the future: "I don't really look back," she says. "I just feel happy if I feel I'm going to eat well on my birthday, and I did. The last few years have been incredible, and I'm really looking forward to this one."

Taste of Dublin 2019 returns to the Iveagh Gardens from June 13-16, celebrating the revolution of the modern Irish menu. Tickets from €15 (excluding booking fee) are on sale now, for more information or to buy tickets, see tasteofdublin.ie 'Clodagh's Suppers: Suppers To Celebrate the Seasons' by Clodagh McKenna is published by Kyle Books, £20.00, see kylebooks.co.uk

Photography by Dora Kazmierak

 

Raspberry and Rosewater Pavlova

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Raspberry & Rosewater Pavlova
 

Makes 1 pavlova

For the raspberry syrup:

100g fresh raspberries

1 tablespoon caster sugar

For the meringue:

9 egg whites, at room temperature

500g caster sugar

2 teaspoons cornflour

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon rosewater

For the filling:

500ml whipping cream

1 tablespoon icing sugar

1 tablespoon rosewater

200g fresh raspberries This is my all-time favourite summer dessert. It is so decadent in flavour and looks absolutely fabulous. I love the flavour of rosewater, and its gentle floral taste works perfectly with the light and fluffy pavlova. I also make the pavlova the evening before and leave it to cool overnight in the oven (after it's turned off). This dish is also delicious with strawberries or peaches, when they are in season.

1 Preheat the oven to 160°C, 320°F, Gas 3, and line a baking tray with greaseproof paper.

2 First, make the raspberry syrup. Combine the raspberries and sugar in a small saucepan, place over a low heat and stir until the sugar has completely dissolved. Cook for a further 2-3 minutes until the raspberries have turned to mush. Transfer the raspberries to a sieve over a bowl, and push them through the sieve using the back of a spoon to create a thick, syrup-like consistency. Leave to cool.

3 To make the meringue, place the egg whites in a very clean and dry large bowl, or the bowl of a stand mixer, and use an electric hand whisk, or the whisk attachment on the stand mixer, to whisk until firm peaks form.

4 Gradually add the caster sugar, a tablespoon at a time, whisking constantly until the mixture is thick and glossy and the sugar has completely dissolved. Then add the cornflour, vinegar and rosewater, and gently fold in until just combined.

5 Spoon the meringue on to the lined baking tray to form a round, and use the back of a wooden spoon to shape the meringue into a nest.

6 Using a teaspoon, drizzle half the raspberry syrup around the meringue to create a ripple effect.

7Place the meringue in the oven, reduce the oven temperature to 140°C, 280°F, Gas 1, and bake for one-and-a-half hours. Then turn off the oven, open the oven door and leave the meringue to cool completely.

8 When the meringue has cooled and you are ready to serve, start assembling the filling - you don't want to add it too far in advance, as it will soak into the meringue. Gently whip the cream in a bowl until it thickens, and then whisk in the icing sugar. Fold in the rosewater. Spoon the filling into the centre of the meringue, arrange the fresh raspberries on top and drizzle over the remaining raspberry syrup.

Rosemary and Lemon Gin Soda

Serves 6

For the syrup:

250g caster sugar

300ml water

3 rosemary sprigs

Juice of 6 lemons To serve:

Ice cubes and 6 lemon slices

6 rosemary sprigs

Gin

Soda water

This cocktail is best served in small tumbler glasses with a thin slice of lemon and a sprig of fresh rosemary, which can also be used as a stirrer. You can serve a non-alcoholic option by just leaving out the gin and adding extra soda water. It's also great with vodka.

1 To make the syrup, put the caster sugar, the water and the rosemary sprigs in a saucepan over a medium heat, and gently bring to the boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved.

2 Remove the pan from the heat and leave the syrup to infuse for 2 hours.

3 Strain the syrup through a sieve into a jug, discard the rosemary sprigs, and stir in the lemon juice.

4 When you are ready to serve, fill each glass halfway with ice cubes and add a lemon slice and a rosemary sprig to each one. Fill the glasses one-quarter of the way with the rosemary and lemon syrup, one-quarter with gin, and the remaining half with soda water. Stir and serve.

 

Gazpacho with Cucumber and Dill Salsa

Serves 6

This is so easy to make as it's really just a case of chopping and blending. The key thing is that you use very ripe tomatoes that are full of flavour. The best way to ripen tomatoes is to place them in a brown paper bag with a banana. It sounds odd, but it works! And never store tomatoes in the fridge, as they won't ripen properly. I try to make this soup a day ahead and keep it in my fridge. It should be served very chilled. The cucumber and dill salsa adds great texture, and you could also add some croutons on top if you wish. When I am having lots of people over for a party, I serve the gazpacho in small glasses.

1kg very ripe tomatoes, diced

100g slightly stale crusty white or sourdough bread, torn into pieces

2 red peppers, cored, deseeded and diced

1 cucumber, diced

2 spring onions, chopped

3 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

200ml extra-virgin olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salsa:

½ cucumber, diced

2 tablespoons chopped dill

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 Place the tomatoes, bread pieces, red peppers, cucumber, spring onions, garlic, sherry vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil in a blender or food processor, and season with salt and pepper. Blend the ingredients until smooth.

2 Transfer the mixture to a bowl, cover with clingfilm, and chill in the fridge for an hour.

3 To make the salsa, mix all the ingredients together in a bowl.

4 To serve, pour the gazpacho into bowls, and spoon the salsa on top.

 

Barbecued Rump with Chimichurri and Charred Chicory

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Barbecued Rump with Chimichurri
 

Serves 6

I absolutely love the flavours of chimichurri - it adds a massive burst of freshness, heat and saltiness to the beef. You can use it with chicken, meaty fish, lamb or pork or over halloumi. The charred chicory is delicious cooked on the barbecue. I also love radicchio cooked the same way.

For the chimichurri

1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

4 tablespoons chopped mint

1 tablespoon chopped thyme leaves

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 anchovy fillets, chopped

2 green chillies, deseeded and sliced

100ml white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon clear Irish honey You will also need:

800g rump steak in one piece

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 heads of white chicory

Good quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

1 First, make the chimichurri. Add all the ingredients to a food processor and pulse until roughly chopped. Transfer to a bowl, and set aside.

2 Prepare a charcoal barbecue, or heat a gas barbecue to a high heat, or place a griddle pan over a high heat. Sprinkle the steak with salt and pepper, and grill for three minutes on each side for medium rare. Set aside and keep warm.

3 Grill the chicory for 1 minute on each side, or until golden. Remove from the barbecue or pan, then drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

4 Thinly slice the steak, spoon over the chimichurri, and serve with the grilled chicory.

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