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A Dublin city Charlatan via Côtes du Rhône

Killian Horan’s second attempt at winemaking is a success and it is worth grabbing a bottle before they’re gone

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Winemaking is talked about in romantic terms, but it's not without its swerveballs

Winemaking is talked about in romantic terms, but it's not without its swerveballs

Longview Vista Shiraz-Barbera, Adelaide Hills, Australia, 14.5pc, €16.95 (from 18.95)

Longview Vista Shiraz-Barbera, Adelaide Hills, Australia, 14.5pc, €16.95 (from 18.95)

Connemara Saint-Chinian 2018, France, 14.5pc, €13.95 (from €15.95)

Connemara Saint-Chinian 2018, France, 14.5pc, €13.95 (from €15.95)

Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna 2020, Italy, 12.5pc, €17

Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna 2020, Italy, 12.5pc, €17

Le Charlatan Côtes du Rhône 2020, France, 14pc, €27

Le Charlatan Côtes du Rhône 2020, France, 14pc, €27

Domaine Pochon Etienne Pochon Crozes-Hermitage 2019, France, 14pc, €25

Domaine Pochon Etienne Pochon Crozes-Hermitage 2019, France, 14pc, €25

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Winemaking is talked about in romantic terms, but it's not without its swerveballs

On a trip to Seattle a few years ago, a highlight was meeting a new breed of winemakers who buy in grapes from growers across Washington State, and have fun with vinifying and blending in grungy garages and industrial warehouses deep in the urban landscape. Their wines spoke of the spirit of the city, while still expressing the agricultural landscape where the vines grow on the other side of the Cascade Mountains. After all, the makers themselves and the culture they come from shape a wine’s terroir too.

I was reminded of this by a description of my wine of the week, Le Charlatan, on the Station to Station Wine website — always a great read, thanks to Rory Craig’s enthusiastic and original take on all things wine. Dublin doesn’t have an abundance of vineyards to play with, but it does have easy access to a continent of fine vines. As Craig points out, it also enjoys an increasingly sophisticated wine culture. As the lines blur between wine shop and wine bar, and merchant and maker, that culture is enlivened by cross-fertilisation between these wine-focussed spaces and the people who work and play in them.


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