Wednesday 21 August 2019

'They dared to say that we put cheddar in our souffle' - Chef lashes out after his restaurant was demoted from three Michelin stars to two

“They have insulted our region; my employees were furious,” he said. Deposit photos
“They have insulted our region; my employees were furious,” he said. Deposit photos
Geraldine Gittens

Geraldine Gittens

A french chef has lashed out at the inspectors of the Michelin guide after his restaurant was demoted from three Michelin stars to two.

Marc Veyrat, one of the most famous chefs in Europe, has demanded that his restaurant be withdrawn from the guide. He said he had been depressed for months after losing the coveted star.

His restaurant La Maison des Bois looks out onto Mont Blanc, and its menus are priced at €395. It has its own botanical and vegetable gardens, orchards; raises its own cows, chickens and freshwater fish; and produces its own bread and cider.

In a letter to the publishers, Veyrat accused them of being “impostors who only want clashes, for commercial reasons,” and he demanded to see the bill from their dining experience.

“They dared to say that we put cheddar in our souffle of reblochon, beaufort and tomme,” Veyrat told Lyon Capitale.

“They have insulted our region; my employees were furious,” he said, according to Le Monde. “When we have eggs from our chickens, milk from our cows, and two botanists collect our plants every morning!”

He told Lyon Capitale magazine that the inspectors “know absolutely nothing about cooking… Let them put on an apron and get in the kitchen. We are waiting. Let them show us what they know how to do ... The Michelin, they’re basically amateurs. They couldn’t cook a decent dish.”

In relation to his mental health, Veyrat fumed: “how dare you take the health of your chefs hostage?”

The Michelin guide’s international director, Gwendal Poullennec, said inspectors visited Veyrat’s “several times every year”. 

He added: “The stars are awarded by Michelin on a yearly basis and they are not the property of the chefs. They are for readers and foodies to give them the opportunity to discover an experience.”

Michelin’s review of the restaurant, however, recommends that it is “worth the detour”, and has “exceptional cuisine”.

The inspectors reported that the “balade” in the woods is “where flavours burst, escape, between herby notes, sap of fir and mushrooms”.

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