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Restaurant review: This daytime-only Docklands eatery offers a welcome change from the usual fare

As One, Unit 3, 13-18 City Quay, Dublin 2; asone.ie

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Top-notch: As One serves up healthy dishes made using good-quality ingredients

Top-notch: As One serves up healthy dishes made using good-quality ingredients

Top-notch: As One serves up healthy dishes made using good-quality ingredients

My friend is a lawyer who works in the Dublin Docklands and I've often heard her moan about the sameness of the offering in the restaurants in that part of town. Chicken wings, burgers... beetroot and goat's cheese salad if you're lucky. She says it goes with the demographics of the customer base - and if you've ever had lunch in the area, you'll understand what she means.

Whatever about the gender breakdown of the workforce, it's still clear - based on empirical observation - that in D2 more men than women go out for mid-morning coffees and sit-down lunches. And I don't mean boozy lunches, I'm talking about the get-out-of-the-office-and-away-from-your-desk lunches that are good for head-clearing and perspective. (There's a theory that women don't do this, choosing to eat at their desks, working through lunch, because there's an expectation that they are the ones who will leave the office early so that they can get to the crèche for pick-up, or home to make dinner and supervise baths, and that men prefer to work late so that they can avoid... the rush hour. But I couldn't possibly comment.)

When I hear about As One, I think it may be the answer to my friend's lunchtime prayers. I've looked at the menu online and there isn't a burger or chicken wing to be seen. Instead, there's what reads like healthy, tasty food made with good-quality ingredients - the kind of food that many of us would prefer to eat, particularly at lunchtime when food serves a more practical purpose that it may in restaurants in the evening, when caution can get thrown to the wind. The kind of food that we'd make at home if we had access to top-notch produce and the time to cook from scratch every day. Amongst the suppliers is Kylie Magner in Fethard, Co Tipperary, whose pasture-reared eggs are something else - I visited the Magner family's farm last year and can confirm that their girls are the happiest layers in Ireland. The organic smoked salmon is from Niall Sabongi's Sustainable Seafood Ireland and all the chicken is organic. Given the prices - which are no higher than any number of restaurants in Ireland serving cheap eggs, conventionally farmed salmon and chicken from the cutting houses of Holland - this is seriously impressive.