Tuesday 10 December 2019

Reinvented classics


Spelt 'risotto'
Spelt 'risotto'
Aoife's Tiramasu
Chef Andy McFadden and pastry chef Aoife Noonan of Glovers Alley

From steak and chips to tiramisu, chef Andy McFadden and pastry chef Aoife Noonan of Glovers Alley in Dublin bring you 5-star interpretations of classic dishes to impress your dinner guests


This is a new take on the traditional steak and chips with sauce. The triple-cooked chips are "a bit of work but definitely worth it, and for the hollandaise, I've used cabernet sauvignon vinegar and rapeseed oil, which has a wonderful earthy, nutty flavour, instead of butter. An important tip is to let the meat come up to room temperature before cooking," says Andy, who held the honour for three years of being the youngest Michelin-starred chef in London, and has just returned to his native Dublin to open Glovers Alley at the Fitzwilliam Hotel.

Serves 4


4 sirloin steaks, 200-250g each

Knob of butter

1 clove garlic

Sprig of rosemary & thyme

For the triple-cooked chips: 1kg Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and cut into chips (approximately 2cm × 2cm × 6cm)

Vegetable or rapeseed oil

Sea salt

For the hollandaise:

2 egg yolks

1 tbsp cabernet sauvignon vinegar

250g rapeseed oil

Squeeze lemon juice

50g each flat parsley, tarragon , chervil

Salad leaves: Castelfranco, red endive, bulls blood, watercress

Dressing: Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil

Cabernet sauvignon vinegar (or any vinegar you like)

Lemon zest


To make the triple-cooked chips:

1 Place the cut chips into a bowl under running water for 5 minutes to wash the starch off. Then place them in a large saucepan and cover with water. Place the pan over a medium heat and simmer until the chips are almost falling apart (approx 20-30 minutes, depending on the potato).

2 Carefully remove the cooked potatoes and place them on a cooling rack to dry out. Then place in the fridge for at least half an hour to remove more moisture.

3 Heat a deep fat fryer to 130ºC. Fry the chips in small batches until a light crust forms (approximately 5 minutes), remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper. Put the potatoes on a cooling rack and place in the fridge for at least half an hour. (At this stage, if you don't want to cook and serve immediately, the chips can be kept in the fridge for three days.)

4 Heat the oil in the deep fat fryer to 180ºC and fry the chips until golden brown.

5 Drain and season with sea salt.

To cook the steaks and make the hollandaise:

1 Heat a pan until very hot, add oil and cook the steaks until done to your liking, turning over every minute and adding butter, garlic, rosemary & thyme. Allow to rest.

2 Meanwhile, start the hollandaise. Put a medium pan of water on to boil. Put the egg yolks into a large, deep bowl, add 1 tbsp cold water and 1 tbsp of the vinegar, then whisk briefly until light and frothy.

3 Put the bowl over, but not touching, the simmering water, then whisk to a light, airy foam. Now gradually add the oil, little by little, whisking all the time to make a silky yellow sauce. Prevent the sauce overheating by lifting the bowl on and off the pan, adding a splash more water if it starts to get too thick. The sauce can be kept warm for up to 30 minutes by sitting the bowl in a bath of just-warm water. If it gets too hot, the sauce will split. Just before serving, finely chop the parsley, tarragon and chervil and stir into the sauce with the lemon juice and seasoning to taste. Mix dressing ingredients together, lightly dress the salad leaves and serve.



Spelt 'risotto'

This 'risotto' has a wonderful nutty flavour and is low in fat, too. It's really fresh, very healthy and packed full of flavour with umami notes and richness from the parmesan.

Serves 4


200g pearled spelt

25g dried porcini mushrooms

½ tbsp olive oil

2 shallots, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

100ml white wine

1 litre hot vegetable stock

1 tbsp low-fat crème fraîche

Bunch parsley, finely chopped

Handful grated Parmesan


1 Cover the spelt with cold water and, in a separate bowl, soak the dried mushrooms in 100ml boiling water for 20 minutes.

2 Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. Tip in the shallot and garlic, cook for 2 minutes. Drain the spelt and add along with the wine. Simmer until almost all the liquid evaporates, stirring often.

3 Drain the porcini mushrooms and add the soaking liquid to the vegetable stock. Stir in the stock 1 cup at a time and simmer, stirring often, until all liquid is absorbed and the spelt is just tender, about 20 minutes in total.

4 Stir in the crème fraîche and season with salt and pepper. Add the Parmesan and parsley. Spoon into bowls and serve.



Aoife's Tiramasu

This is a twist on a classic, taking the flavours and elements usually associated with a traditional tiramisu - espresso, mascarpone and chocolate - and adding layers of hazelnuts and caramel to create an elegant and refined dessert. The hazelnut dacquoise is a delicate light sponge, filled with coffee and dark chocolate crème and whipped orange-scented mascarpone, with tiny nuggets of caramelised hazelnuts and frangelico spiked caramel dotted between the layers. All of the elements can be prepared in advance and stored separately for up to 3 days until ready to serve.

Serves 4


For the hazelnut dacquoise (makes 1 tray):

4 egg whites

100g caster sugar

75g sieved icing sugar

65g hazelnuts, skinned and ground

For the chocolate coffee crème: 350g dark chocolate

2 leaf gelatine

5 egg yolks

50g caster sugar

250ml milk

250ml cream (1)

150ml cream (2)

2tsp coffee extract

For the mascarpone cream:

125g mascarpone

40g icing sugar

20ml cream

Zest ½ orange

For the caramelised hazelnuts: 50g caster sugar

50g hazelnuts, skinned and roughly chopped

For the frangelico caramel: 250g sugar

200ml cream

125ml freshly brewed coffee

1tbsp frangelico hazelnut liqueur

Cocoa powder to serve


For the hazelnut dacquoise:

1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC. Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Whisk the egg whites with the caster sugar in a clean mixing bowl to stiff peak to make a meringue.

2 Fold the icing sugar into the meringue with the ground hazelnuts. Spread the mix onto the tray as thin as possible and cook for 3-4 minutes until golden brown and firm to the touch. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.

3 Using a round cutter or a glass, cut out 16 discs of the dacquoise (4 per portion) and set aside. Store in an airtight container until ready to serve.

For the chocolate coffee crème:

1 Melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water, stirring occasionally. Put the gelatine in a bowl with ice water to soften and leave for 5 minutes.

2 Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl. Heat the milk and the 250ml cream in a medium saucepan.

3 Once boiling, pour the liquid over the egg yolks and sugar, whisking all the time. Pour the mix back into a clean pan and cook over a low heat until the custard coats the back of a wooden spoon or until it reaches 77ºC on a thermometer.

4 Remove from the heat and add the squeezed out gelatine leaves. Whisk to dissolve. Pour this mix through a sieve over the chocolate, whisking to combine. Set aside to cool slightly.

5 Whisk the remaining 150ml cream to soft peak. Fold the whipped cream into the cooled chocolate mix and add the coffee extract. Keep the coffee chocolate crème chilled until ready to serve.

For the mascarpone cream:

1 Beat the mascarpone, icing sugar and cream together until smooth. Fold in the orange zest and chill until required.

For the caramelised hazelnuts:

1 Put the sugar in a pan and place on a medium heat. Begin to caramelise the sugar, ensuring the sugar does not burn. Swirl the pan to move the caramel evenly around the pan.

2 Once the caramel is golden brown, add the hazelnuts, stirring to coat evenly. Pour the hazelnuts out onto a tray lined with parchment paper and separate the nuts with a spoon. Leave to cool.

For the frangelico caramel:

1 Put a small quantity of the sugar in a large pan over a medium heat. Make a caramel with the sugar in the pan and once dark brown, add another small quantity of sugar.

2 Continue to add sugar and caramelise until all of the sugar is dark golden brown.

3 Slowly pour in the cream, whisking all the time, taking care as the caramel will boil and spit.

4 Bring the caramel back to a boil and pour through a sieve into a container. Cool. Add the coffee and liqueur and set aside.

5 To serve, place one disc of hazelnut dacquoise in the centre of each plate. Spoon a tablespoon of coffee crème in the middle of the disc with 2 or 3 hazelnuts and a drizzle of caramel. Press another disc on top. Spoon a tablespoon of mascarpone on top followed by another disc. Repeat with the coffee crème, hazelnuts and caramel, and finish with a fourth and final disc of dacquoise. Dust the top with cocoa powder. Repeat with the remaining three portions and serve.

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