Lucinda O’Sullivan: From Roundwood to Laragh, there are treats and traditions for foodies to discover in Wicklow

With a glimmer of sun on the horizon, our critic heads for the hills and discovers some sensational spots in the Garden of Ireland

"Set on seafood, we had the delicious lobster bisque (€9)" - at The Roundwood Inn in Wicklow. Picture by Lucinda O'Sullivan

The Roundwood Inn Special Seafood Platter, Salad & Brown Bread.

"Set on seafood, we had the delicious lobster bisque (€9)" - at The Roundwood Inn in Wicklow. Picture by Lucinda O'Sullivan

The Roundwood Inn Special Seafood Platter, Salad & Brown Bread.

The Wicklow Heather interior.

"Set on seafood, we had the delicious lobster bisque (€9)" - at The Roundwood Inn in Wicklow. Picture by Lucinda O'Sullivan

Lucinda O’Sullivan Twitter

May 29 2022 02:30 AM

‘Ne’er cast a clout till May is out’ is the old saying, and we’re almost there. Next weekend is the June bank holiday, and the flag will go up and see everyone racing to the highways and byways for the first big weekend of summer. However, after a couple of weeks of dreary weather and the sudden appearance of a fine sunny Sunday, I decided to jump the gun, taking off for the hills and mountains of the Garden of Ireland for a bit of fresh air, a peep into the happenings on the food scene, and perhaps a spot of lunch.

The Roundwood Inn Special Seafood Platter, Salad & Brown Bread.

Roundwood Stores

Roundwood has always been a popular destination for Dubliners, and Simon Pratt, former head of Avoca, certainly hasn’t lost his touch with his new Roundwood Stores. Located in the outbuildings of The Coach House on Roundwood’s Main Street, once you go through the gates, it’s basically a converted rustic shed with a number of tables outside in the yard. But the Pratt family have always had an eye for creating a relaxed, chic vibe and the punters were queuing up for delicious fresh salads, sausage rolls, cinnamon buns with cream cheese, quiches and open-style cheese and chutney toasties on ‘life-changing bread’.

We didn’t chow down then and there, but came home with a delicious freshly baked date cake with red wine (€7.95). Instagram: @roundwoodstores

Coach House

Next door, it was good to see that the 200-year-old hunting-lodge-style Coach House — once known as The Royal Coach House — has been completely refurbished and also offers accommodation. It’s owned by the Lawlor family, who also have the Enniskerry Inn — another popular destination. Sunday lunch included the roast of the day and casual food such as fish and chips, red Thai curry and steak sandwiches.

See thecoachhouse.ie; Instagram: @bestcoachhouse

La Fig & Glendalough Green Deli Cafe

Moving on, we passed La Fig, a Viennoiserie-style bakery and pizzeria, which does divine pastries, and further out in Laragh, it was just great to see the bikers out in force congregating on the grassy area at the cool Glendalough Green Cafe Deli. It does a great range of delicious soups, daily specials, fresh salads, home-baked scones and breads — and no, you don’t need a bike to join the crowd.

Instagram: @lafigroundwood. See glendaloughgreen.com; Instagram: @glendalough_green

The Wicklow Heather interior.

The Wicklow Heather

We arrived at The Wicklow Heather, just a stone’s throw away, which was in full swing when we wheeled in. The regulars here know that the seafood chowder is legendary and that the slow-roast leg of Wicklow lamb with garlic is worth the drive, not to mention the roast stuffed turkey and ham, which I like any time of the year. They also offer nearby accommodation.
See wicklowheather.ie; Instagram: @wicklowheather

"Set on seafood, we had the delicious lobster bisque (€9)" - at The Roundwood Inn in Wicklow. Picture by Lucinda O'Sullivan

The Roundwood Inn

After a life-affirming stroll around the monastic site at Glendalough, we returned to another former hunting lodge, The Roundwood Inn. With its latticed windows, it was as pristine as when I was last there when it was owned by the late Jürgen and Áine Schwalm. A very popular spot, it regularly featured Garech de Brún and his wife, Princess Harshad Purna Devi; de Brún entertained everyone from the Rolling Stones to Lucian Freud at his nearby Luggala estate.

The Schwalms’ daughter, Helen, and her husband, Michael Ahearne, are now at the helm, and it was nice to see some of the old mid-European family influences still there with goulash, goose liver pate, turkey schnitzel, and venison medallions.

Set on seafood, we shared a delicious lobster bisque (€9) as well as a stunning lobster cocktail (€23.50) and a fabulous seafood platter (€25.50) featuring gravlax, smoked salmon, dill pickled herring, smoked mackerel, salmon, prawns and cold-water shrimps — all centred around a crisp shredded salad. We passed on puds (€7.50-€8.50), including blueberry pancake and ice-cream; home-made apple crumble and ice-cream. With a glass of house Sauvignon Blanc for Mary (€8.50), water (€3.50), coffee (€3.50), tea (€3), and service, our bill came to €84.70. We loved seeing Fir and Mná still on the loo doors. Tradition!

Facebook: @theroundwoodinn; tel: (01) 281-8107

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