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Toklas restaurant review: ‘I defy anyone not to agree these are the Very Best Chips Ever. You simply must order them’

Our food critic is wowed by fresh ingredients and tempting early bird prices at a stylish London eatery

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The interior of Toklas restaurant in London

The interior of Toklas restaurant in London

The heated terrace at Toklas restaurant

The heated terrace at Toklas restaurant

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The interior of Toklas restaurant in London

Since the axis of London shifted east, all the most interesting new restaurants seem to have opened over that side of the city. Which is all very well — and if you haven’t visited places such as Max Rocha’s Café Cecilia, and the triumvirate of Brat, Brawn and Bright, you should put them on your list for your next trip — but not so good if you’re heading to a show in the West End, or from a case in the law courts, or have other reason to be in Central and need somewhere to eat.

Toklas — named for Alice B Toklas, partner of Gertrude Stein — is located off the Strand not far from Covent Garden and close to Somerset House and Waterloo Bridge in what a well-informed young man who knows about such things tells me is the most fashionable address in London, owned by the people behind art business Frieze. On the night of my visit, the procession of young, beautiful and, yes, very fashionable people into a private party elsewhere in the building proves him right.


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