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Review of The Fallow at Dublin Airport: ‘About 40 minutes after I’ve ordered, someone shows up with my burger. It looks sad, rather than the magnificent creation described’

Our food critic is disappointed by a promising menu that fails to take off at Dublin Airport’s newest eatery

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The Fallow is located at Dublin Airport’s Terminal 2

The Fallow is located at Dublin Airport’s Terminal 2

Katy's burger arrived dry rather than juicy

Katy's burger arrived dry rather than juicy

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The Fallow is located at Dublin Airport’s Terminal 2

Since reviewing Marqette a few years back, I’ve done my best to avoid being hungry in Dublin Airport and putting myself at the mercy of its eating opportunities. But The Fallow sounded as if it might be different. The menu — a simple, straightforward offering scattered with the names of excellent Irish producers, including butcher Hugh Maguire, potato growers Ballymakenny, and mushroom maestros Garry hinch — sounded good. Perhaps the chance to showcase the best of Irish food to departing visitors had finally been seized?

At lunchtime on Thursday, the woman at the entrance hands me a menu and says I can sit at any empty table. She explains that I need to scan the QR code to order. She does not offer the option of ordering in person, which I later learn is an alternative. There are plenty of free tables, but most are covered with the detritus left by previous customers and stay that way for longer than they should. I walk almost to the back of the space near the kitchen before I find one that’s clear.


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