Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: The Sea Rooms at Kelly’s — ‘The seven-course tasting menu was stunning’

As a fan of chef Chris Fullam’s fare, our critic felt she might be in for something special at The Sea Rooms in Kelly’s… and her hunch was proved correct

"Being surrounded by nature, The Sea Rooms is the perfect foil for his talents; it’s an indoor-outdoor dining experience created in the magnificent shoreside gardens of Kelly’s." Honey-and-lavender-glazed aged duck breast, ember and salt-baked celeriac, Kelly’s caramelised celeriac puree, candied walnut, jus. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Kilmore Quay crab, roasted bok choy, pickled fennel, trout roe, horseradish espuma. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Dark chocolate, honeycomb, barley. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Head Chef at The Sea Rooms at Kelly's Chris Fullam. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

"Being surrounded by nature, The Sea Rooms is the perfect foil for his talents; it’s an indoor-outdoor dining experience created in the magnificent shoreside gardens of Kelly’s." Honey-and-lavender-glazed aged duck breast, ember and salt-baked celeriac, Kelly’s caramelised celeriac puree, candied walnut, jus. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Kilmore Quay crab, roasted bok choy, pickled fennel, trout roe, horseradish espuma. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Dark chocolate, honeycomb, barley. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Head Chef at The Sea Rooms at Kelly's Chris Fullam. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Lucinda O’Sullivan Twitter

March 07 2023 02:30 AM

Chris Fullam is a young Dublin chef whose star has been steadily on the rise. He’s been in high-end restaurants such as The Greenhouse and the Cliff House Hotel, and I experienced his food when he was head chef at the former Le Perroquet on Leeson Street. There’s an elegance and finesse to everything Fullam does, a lightness of touch, bringing incredible detail and flavour into each element on the plate. Now though, he has the opportunity to really make waves and reach for the stars at The Sea Rooms in Rosslare, which I expect will become a destination restaurant of renown.

Being surrounded by nature, The Sea Rooms is the perfect foil for his talents; it’s an indoor-outdoor dining experience created in the magnificent shoreside gardens of Kelly’s Resort on Rosslare Strand. The chic, mid-century-style, two-storey building rises seamlessly from its sunken lower-level dining room, with floor-to-ceiling windows that open out onto the assimilating terraces, and it also has a custom-designed barbecue kitchen.

Kilmore Quay crab, roasted bok choy, pickled fennel, trout roe, horseradish espuma. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

There’s a seven-course ‘Fire & Garden’ tasting menu (€70), which we had, but I love the fact that you’re not locked into that. There’s also a 2/3 course dinner menu (€45/€55). We kicked off with luscious golf ball-sized ‘snacks’ of confit duck leg croquettes, and brioche crostini topped with Parmesan cream and smoked bacon, not to mention delicious sourdough with addictive pats of smoked butter and smoked bacon butter.

These were followed by the most delicious quenelle of Kilmore Quay crab, topped with vibrant orange glistening beads of Goatsbridge trout roe. Off-setting this cool colour palette was the fresh, light, apple green of crisp, delicately roasted, halved bok choy, which created a vehicle for a pickled fennel melange, horseradish espuma, lightly dusted with powdered burnt hay ash.

Dark chocolate, honeycomb, barley. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

The warm, silky texture of Cáis Na Tíre sheep’s cheese ravioli followed, with smoked egg yolk, sorrel and seaweed sauce, again followed in turn by a pearly-white cushion of cod, with an ember-baked carrot, napped with mussels, dill and buttermilk.

All of this paved the way to the rich, deep flavours of honey-and-lavender-glazed aged duck breast, its beautifully browned skin so skilfully executed to render perfectly pink tender flesh beneath it. Enhanced by ember and salt-baked celeriac, the alluring sweetness of caramelised celeriac puree, candied walnut, and an intense jus, created a top-notch experience.

A little dish of yoghurt, laced with astringent lemon and vanilla, cleared the way for a sleek 65pc dark chocolate set-custard rondelle, served with honeycomb ganache, whipped milk chocolate namalaka — a Japanese-style rich, creamy set chocolate — honeycomb, cocoa crumb and barley ice cream to the side.

Head Chef at The Sea Rooms at Kelly's Chris Fullam. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Two hefty petits fours — salted caramel Madeira cremeux dipped in dark chocolate and cocoa butter, and tartlets of beetroot and white chocolate with caramelised white chocolate — finished off a stunning menu, which was an absolute steal at €70. While Kelly’s is renowned for its extensive wine cellars, at very good prices, we didn’t get carried away with ourselves, having a bottle of Raymond Dupont-Fahn Bourgogne Aligoté 2020 (€38), which suited the earlier fishy courses, and, with the duck, a glass each of Eric de Suremain Chateau de Monthelie 2018 (€9.50) — an organic purple-hued Pinot Noir with strawberry aromas.

Service, led by house managers Saoirse and Nicole, equally displayed the great passion of this team.

It’s not all about Dublin when it comes to contemporary fine dining. We have a number of destination restaurants around the country — Dede in Baltimore, Lignum in Galway, Terre in Castlemartyr — and now the Sunny South-East has a real star to add to the list. The Sea Rooms is open to non-residents, but don’t roll up unannounced, booking is essential for lunch and dinner.

The Sea Rooms, Kelly’s Resort Hotel & Spa, Rosslare Strand, Co Wexford. Tel: (053) 917-3553. See kellys.ie

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