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Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: Harbor House’s ‘stunning’ lobster demands a trip to Dún Laoghaire

On happening upon the new Harbor House Chinese restaurant in Dún Laoghaire, our critic was captivated by the fabulous food and cool vibes

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Lobster with ginger & spring onion

Lobster with ginger & spring onion

Scallops garlic butter, chilli and spring onion

Scallops garlic butter, chilli and spring onion

Dim Sum Platter to the front with scallops to the rear

Dim Sum Platter to the front with scallops to the rear

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Lobster with ginger & spring onion

A lot of the time, going to a new restaurant is a bit like buying a pig in a poke, as the old expression goes. But that’s the job of the critic — to test the restaurant or hotel on behalf of the reader, without fear or favour, so you can decide whether you want try it or not. You don’t tweet them in advance, as is the habit of many social media bods, blithely letting them know of their impending arrival in hope of a complimentary meal or stay.

Reviews on that basis aren’t worth the time it takes to read them. Often, as a critic, it goes the other way too, as I’m regularly inundated with press releases for new restaurants that gush about the chef, the ‘amazing’ food, and offer lavish descriptions of everything from the colour of the wallpaper to the heritage of the knives and forks. Unfortunately, PRs can get carried away with enthusiasm for their clients.  


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