Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: ‘Blackrock Cottage doesn’t take bookings. We were lucky to get in before beanie-clad bonces filled the morning rush’ - Independent.ie
Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: ‘Blackrock Cottage doesn’t take bookings. We were lucky to get in before beanie-clad bonces filled the morning rush’
Having beaten the morning rush, our critic and her pals enjoyed breakfast at the newly opened Blackrock Cottage, a converted 200-year-old cottage in a prime spot
"Set in a stunningly restored, repurposed cottage that’s almost 200 years old, the building is now a cafe, to which they’ve added a chic, light-filled modern extension and outdoor fire pit, taking advantage of the stunning views over Galway Bay." Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
Clockwise from top: Lemon and chill avocado on sourdough with cherry tomatoes and smoked tofu; duck fat potato rosti; croissant Benny. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
The interior of the almost 200-year-old section of Blackrock Cottage on Salthill Prom. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
Croissant Benny, one of the delicious breakfast items on the menu at Blackrock Cottage. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
"The display of pastries finally got to Eamon, who gave way to a bun or, more precisely, a choux croustillant filled with a vanilla custard (€3.50)." Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
The iconic Blackrock Diving Tower in Salthill, which is located across the road from the newly restored Blackrock Cottage. The diving structure was erected in 1950 but there's been a springboard in Salthill since 1885. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
"Set in a stunningly restored, repurposed cottage that’s almost 200 years old, the building is now a cafe, to which they’ve added a chic, light-filled modern extension and outdoor fire pit, taking advantage of the stunning views over Galway Bay." Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
Needless to say, as I was almost blown away while taking pictures of the iconic Blackrock Diving Tower at Salthill in Galway, there was a hardy swimmer braving the elements, diving into the icy waves.
“There’s always one,” remarked a passerby. The diving tower here is a really special place — it’s one of the most photographed landmarks in Galway. Blackrock was a men-only bathing spot up to the 1970s, when the cailíní álainn of Connacht finally said, ‘enough now, lads’.
I was in Salthill to visit the new Blackrock Cottage developed by Brían McHugh with executive chef Martin O’Donnell, ex The Twelve Hotel, at the helm. Set in a stunningly restored, repurposed cottage that’s almost 200 years old, the building is now a cafe, to which they’ve added a chic, light-filled modern extension and outdoor fire pit, taking advantage of the stunning views over Galway Bay.
On our visit, Blackrock Cottage was open daily for breakfast (8am-12pm) and lunch (12.30pm-5pm), with dinner to follow at a later date. They don’t take bookings, but luckily we arrived just before the morning rush — within an hour, there was a queue of beanie-clad bonces clutching menus as they lined the passage between the old and new sections.
Croissant Benny, one of the delicious breakfast items on the menu at Blackrock Cottage. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
Anyway, smugly ensconced at a table in the old section, facing a display of divine pastries, I laid down the law of restaurant critiquing avec moi to my pals: “You’re not just having the full Irish, no matter how much you want it after last night’s revelries, nor are you having the soft-boiled egg with sourdough buttery soldiers. We’re here to try something different!”
With prices for breakfast dishes ranging between€7.50-€13.50, protein buttermilk and blueberry pancakes with warm Sliabh Aughty Honey butter, coffee bacon and chia sounded good (€11). As did courgette and Aran Island feta fritters with lemon, dill and black garlic creme fraiche, poached eggs and rocket (€11.50).
The interior of the almost 200-year-old section of Blackrock Cottage on Salthill Prom. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
Eschewing the eggy element of her dish, my veggie friend Rena had lemon and chilli avocado on sourdough, with cherry tomatoes and smoked tofu (€10.50). Eamon had a Croissant Benny (€12.50) — a ‘new wave’ eggs Benedict with a French twist, with a decent splosh of hollandaise snaking down over a wave of smoked salmon and poached eggs.
Duck fat potato rosti (€13) caught my eye, so, of course, I had to to give it a go. It wasn’t the more usual crispy grated potato-cake rosti; instead, individual ‘mandolin’-style slivers of crispy potato were fried in duck fat and topped with pulled spicy duck leg, two fried eggs, a further decorative sprinkling of the old quacker, rocket, and toasted wasabi sesame.
"The display of pastries finally got to Eamon, who gave way to a bun or, more precisely, a choux croustillant filled with a vanilla custard (€3.50)." Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
"The display of pastries finally got to Eamon, who gave way to a bun or, more precisely, a choux croustillant filled with a vanilla custard (€3.50)." Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
It was very nice, but I didn’t get much sense of spice. Liking the traditional element of a sweet, fruity sauce with duck, be it Chinese or French, I asked if they had hoisin or plum sauce. They hadn’t, but kindly brought teriyaki sauce.
The display of pastries finally got to Eamon, who gave way to a bun or, more precisely, a choux croustillant filled with a vanilla custard (€3.50). And so, with two flat whites for him (€6.80), two Americanos for Rena (€6) and a mocha for moi (€4), our bill, with charming service, came to €62.80.
There’s also a takeaway hatch from 7.30am-5pm, run by the Álainn team (who had a popular coffee van and then a container cafe beside the site and are now in partnership with Blackrock Cottage) offering delicious-sounding superfood bowls, in three sizes, from Overnight Oats to Mango Blitz to Blue Majik, and coffee by the Burren roaster Anam.
The iconic Blackrock Diving Tower in Salthill, which is located across the road from the newly restored Blackrock Cottage. The diving structure was erected in 1950 but there's been a springboard in Salthill since 1885. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
The iconic Blackrock Diving Tower in Salthill, which is located across the road from the newly restored Blackrock Cottage. The diving structure was erected in 1950 but there's been a springboard in Salthill since 1885. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan
The lunchtime menu at Blackrock Cottage includes posh sambos of smoked salmon and crab with sweet pickled cucumbers (€16); starters/small plates (€7-€12), including Killary Harbour steamed mussels; Blackrock chowder, and crispy duck wings; while mains (€14-€29.90) include substantial dishes such as McGeough’s smoked beef burger; baked turkey and ham Wellington; lamb shank, and poke bowls.
What will it be like at weekends and in the summer? Expect queues!
Blackrock Cottage, Salthill Promenade, Galway. Instagram:@blackrock_cottage, see blackrockcottage.ie