Lottie’s review: ‘Despite serving the ubiquitous croquettes and tartare, this new Domini Kemp restaurant offers true hospitality and decent value’

In Paris recently, I was struck by the individuality of restaurants and wine bars, in terms of both food and interior design. Menus here have become predictable, and there’s a bland uniformity to the way new restaurants look. Croquettes and tartare are ubiquitous, while fit-outs all look as if they have been done by the same company. Call me jaded, but when food and interiors are this interchangeable, I’m reminded that, as a customer, I am just a cog in the hospitality machine, my function being to generate a pre-determined amount of revenue within a designated time slot before freeing up the table for the next booking.