| 14.1°C Dublin

Close

Premium

Back to Bresson: Lucinda O’Sullivan revisits the bistro in the ’burbs, and finds it better than ever

Temple Garner’s fabulous suburban hotspot has a new chef, writes our critic, who was eager to sample his menu

Close

'Gortnamona goat’s cheese paired with baby artichoke, heirloom tomato, black olive and tomato essence'

'Gortnamona goat’s cheese paired with baby artichoke, heirloom tomato, black olive and tomato essence'

'Coquilles Saint-Jacques: A trio of gratinated Kilkeel scallops in a rich, tasty chaudrée of smoked haddock, Alsace bacon and brown shrimps, piped with pommes Duchesse, topped with leeks and Gruyère'

'Coquilles Saint-Jacques: A trio of gratinated Kilkeel scallops in a rich, tasty chaudrée of smoked haddock, Alsace bacon and brown shrimps, piped with pommes Duchesse, topped with leeks and Gruyère'

/

'Gortnamona goat’s cheese paired with baby artichoke, heirloom tomato, black olive and tomato essence'

The rise of the local restaurant has been greatly helped by the pandemic, with so many working from home and socialising locally. The neighbourhood dining scene also had a boost in standards in recent years with aspiring chef-patrons, who, unable to afford city-centre rents, brought their talents to the suburbs instead, offering food more akin to Dublin’s Golden Mile.

In 2018, Temple Garner took over Seapoint Restaurant in Monkstown Village, turning it into Bresson, an upmarket, fashionable French restaurant. Garner is a formidable chef; not a man of many words, but one who knows his own mind and gets on with it. He’s always been involved in the city’s high-end restaurants, from winning Dublin’s first Bib Gourmand at the iconic Mermaid Cafe on Dame Street, to partnering with Ronan Ryan when the duo took over the then Mitchell’s Cellars and set up the restaurant of its time, Town Bar & Grill on Kildare Street. Here, billionaires, politicians and journos rubbed shoulders over Garner and Ryan’s New York-style Italian fare. Ryan now has the terrific Le Comptoir in Donnybrook. 


Most Watched





Privacy