Friday 17 August 2018

EAT:ITH at the Fumbally


Young baker preparing artisan sourdough bread.
Young baker preparing artisan sourdough bread.


EAT:ITH is a series of 'workshops, events and thoughts surrounding food culture in Ireland' to be held in the Fumbally Stables between now and the end of October. Formerly known as 'The Autumn Series', this is the third year of programming and collaborations, involving a host of interesting producers, chefs, farmers, sommeliers, baristas and activists.

"Our aim is to promote a better way of eating and drinking," says Aisling Rogerson of The Fumbally. "We want to discuss openly the ways in which we choose to eat and drink and how this affects our health and happiness; we want to learn more about the sustainable practices surrounding food and food production and how this impacts us on a daily basis; and we want to celebrate the inspiring and positive aspects of the culture of food and drink in Ireland."

EAT:ITH is non-profit-driven, and places an emphasis on locally-focused and community-led organisations and projects. The programme of events has been designed to be 'accessible to every interest and affordable to all', and incorporates five free talks and a number of ticketed events ranging in price from €5 to €110. There is a scholarship programme for those that cannot afford the more expensive workshops.

The main food event is 'The Dinner' on October 21, celebrating some of Ireland's 'quietly brilliant' chefs: Keith Coleman of Fia in Ratghar, Dublin (reviewed on page 37); Mark Jennings of Pilgrims in Rosscarbery, Co, Cork; and Ken Doherty and Gwen McGrath of the tiny but perfect Assassination Custard, located on Dublin's Wood Quay.

There's a sourdough workshop on October 14 with Shane Palmer from Dublin's Scéal Bakery and Monika Walecka, who is flying over from Poland especially for the event, which is focused on wholegrain and fresh milling.

This workshop ties in with a talk later in the day on whether we have the capacity to grow our own heritage grains in Ireland and what this could mean for artisan bakeries here.

The Debate this coming Tuesday, September 26 (7pm to 9pm) is entitled 'Starting from Scratch or Building on Tradition... Where is Irish Food Culture Today?'. Participants include JP McMahon defending our long-standing Irish Food Culture against Mairtín Mac Con Iomaire, who will be saying that Irish Food Culture is only in its infancy.

For the full programme of events, see

Greystones in a pickle

Sunil Ghai of Pickle is opening a new take-away in Greystones. Named Tiffin by Sunil, doors are set to open in the middle of October. The good people of the Co Wicklow town must be pinching themselves that they will soon have two sources of great Indian food, the other being Chakra.

Cheese & wine tastings

Wine shop Terroirs in Donnybrook stocks a small range of carefully chosen food products. Upcoming tastings include Corleggy Cheese with Tom Cropp on October 21,  Cuinneog Butter with Breda Butler on November 11, and Wooded Pig charcuterie with Eoin Bird on November 18.

From brioche to bow land

Chef Gavin McDonagh, whose Brioche in Ranelagh shut its doors over the summer, is back behind the stoves in Bow Lane on Dublin’s Aungier St, where you’ll find bacon & cabbage on the menu, if his Instagram is anything to go by. It looks fab.

Irish Independent

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