Wednesday 17 January 2018

Farewell Paolo Tullio: Five of Paolo's most memorable thoughts on food

Paolo Tullio, photographed at his home in Annamoe, Co. Wicklow.
Paolo Tullio, photographed at his home in Annamoe, Co. Wicklow.
Denise Calnan

Denise Calnan

The popular food and wine critic Paolo Tullio was loved for his honest and personal style of writing. Here are five of Paolo's most memorable thoughts on food:

1. On Espresso

"The Irish like espresso like their tea, as hot as possible. In Italy, an espresso might come just a third of the way up the demitasse. Try that here and you'll be asked: "Where's the rest of my espresso?"

From the review: Bianconi's Bistro Dublin 4

2. On Tapas

"Five or six years ago, practically every new eaterie that opened served tapas. Tapas were everywhere, from Dublin city centre to small provincial towns.

"There was a moment during those years when I thought that soon, if the trend continued, tapas would be the only option for a diner..."

From the review: Paolo Tullio: Tantalising tapas in Zaragoza

3. On Dessert

"It's a curious thing that, even when your stomach feels completely full, there's often a bit of space in your dessert stomach, which quite obviously is a different stomach."

4. On Soup

"I'm a recent convert to soup. For years I steadfastly avoided it, but the onion soup with parmesan crisp served in Salt of Monkstown changed my mind."

From the review: Lost in fine dining in Dublin's Dawson Brasserie

5. On Italian Cooking

"Those restaurateurs who thought they could pass off virtually any plateful of stuff as 'Italian' cookery may find their days are numbered. Real Italian cookery and genuine artisan products are here to stay."

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