Sunday 17 December 2017

Barfly: Eden, Grange Road, Rathfarnham, D16

Ed Power

Ed Power

Smug Liffeysiders often have a half-baked vision of 'country' pubs as quaint one-stop shops encompassing bar, grocer, hair-dresser, haberdasher, fortune teller, etc.

Which is ironic as, if it's a three-in-one boozer you are looking for, suburban Dublin is a far safer bet.

Schools' rugby, dodgy under-age discos and Ugg boots and hoodie-look aside, you might argue that SoCoDu's chief contribution to global civilisation has been the pub-chinese restaurant combo, an entity generally confined to the leafier south of Liffey 'burbs.

On the edges of Marlay Park, the Eden takes the model and runs with it. Not only does this sprawling complex include a Thai eaterie and barbecue area, there's also a funeral home tacked on -- a fact which would appear to suggest a profound metaphysical statement, though we're not sure quite what it is.

As to the pub itself, well, we are at the classier end of the Dublin suburban lounge, with dedicated floor-staff, pour-your-own tables and lots of wide-screen television.

We'd tell you it's to die for only, with an undertakers' tacked on, it would feel in poor taste.

Grange Road, Rathfarnham, D16. tel: 01 4931492

INTHEGLASS: Pint of lager €4.90, pint of stout €4.70

ATTHEBAR: Well-dressed locals

ONTHESTEREO: Lounge music

AND? Check out the pub menu at edenhouse.ie

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