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Yuliia Rakitina outside the Hydro Hotel in Lisdoonvarna, Co Clare. Photo: Eamon Ward

Ellen Coyne

The stone-wall lined lanes that lace the Burren are busy again. Flat-capped men sit in the windscreens of tour buses, like wooden figureheads on the front of a ship, as they dominate the grass-marked roads and hairpin bends between Lisdoonvarna, Corofin, Gort and Kinvara.