A nice girl trying to be naughty
Nigelissima (BBC Two) is the name of the series and, according to its hostess, it's all about Italy which, "dare I say it, is my spiritual home".
In fact, it's all about Nigella, who's as Italian as Boris Johnson and whose arch attempts at flirtatiousness will never transform her into Claudia Cardinale, even if she emulates the same pout.
But Cardinale was a force of nature, while Nigella never seems more than a nicely brought-up girl trying to be naughty. I didn't swoon over her recipes, either. A risotto with barley instead of rice? No thanks, Nigella.