Barfly: Ryan’s Beggars Bush
115 Haddington Road, Ballsbridge D4.
Tel: 01 6682650
Located on leafy Haddington Road, Ryan's Beggars Bush is, at first glance, a quintessential south Dublin watering hole -- elegantly scruffy, but a bit posh and tweedy with it.
A tipsy ramble away from the Aviva Stadium, it is, as you would expect, popular among the rugby set. But it is also close to Baggot Street and so draws a large afterwork following, particularly at summer when the besuited classes make enthusiastic use of the extensive outdoor seating.
Far from being a cookie-cutter D4 drinking den, though, Ryan's thrums with its own history. Scan the faded walls and you will see dozens of sepia photographs, many chronicling the changing face of this stretch of the capital down the decades (a nice change from the rugby pics which establishments south of the Liffey often dangle from every available nook).
Not exactly the largest pub in the world, at weekends Ryan's can draw a throng. Nothing wrong with that -- but we recommend you get there early, while watery daylight is still ebbing through the windows and the only sound is the clink of glasses and rustle of fellow patrons leafing through the morning paper. We reckon it's as close to heaven as you can get without turning teetotal.
IN THE GLASS: Pint of stout €4, pint of lager €4.50
ON THE STEREO: Low chatter
AT THE BAR: Rugby fans, white-collar tipplers
AND: In the 60s, Ryan’s was supposedly the local of famed American poet John Berryman
Day & Night